Cambridge Edition November 2020 - Web

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ARTS & CULTURE NOVEMBER’S UNMISSABLE EVENTS HOME EDITION GARDEN TIPS & DREAM KITCHENS

FANTASTIC FESTIVE FEASTS, COMFORTING RECIPES TO TRY AT HOME, INDIE SHOPPING PICKS & MORE TO WARM THE COCKLES THIS MONTH WINTERWARMTH

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EDITORIAL Editor in chief Nicola Foley 01223 499459 nicolafoley@bright-publishing.com Editorial assistant Frances McNaughton 01223 499469 francesmcnaughton@bright-publishing.com Editorial director Roger Payne Chief sub editor Beth Fletcher Sub editor Elisha Young Junior sub editor Jack Nason ADVERTISING Group ad manager Sam Scott-Smith 01223 499457 samscott-smith@bright-publishing.com Sales executive Lucy McNally 01223 492248 lucymcnally@bright-publishing.com CONTRIBUTORS Charlotte Griffiths, Roger Payne, Alex Rushmer & Anna Taylor DESIGN & PRODUCTION Designer Lucy Woolcomb lucywoolcomb@bright-publishing.com Ad production Man-Wai Wong manwaiwong@bright-publishing.com MANAGING DIRECTORS Andy Brogden & Matt Pluck

s always at this time of year, the festive songs are beginning to play in the shops, the turquoise boxes filled with mince pies are back at Fitzbillies, the ice rink is poised to return to Parker’s Piece and the city’s lights are soon to be switched on; but there’s no pretending that this is anything like a normal

Christmas build-up here in Cambridge. With no pantos to look forward to, no office parties and no carol services, things feel understandably subdued in the city as we wait to discover exactly what a coronavirus Christmas looks like. Thankfully, the city’s restaurants are doing their level best to get punters in the spirit of things with some cockle- warming Christmas menus and specials (find out more on page 47), and if you’re more organised than me and you’re already thinking about buying presents, we’ve got a guide to some of the city’s top Christmas shopping spots on page 53. There’s been some exciting action on the Cambridge food scene in recent weeks, with Thai restaurant Giggling Squid (finally!) opening its doors. Located in the old Jamie’s Italian building on Wheeler Street, this restaurant has been one of the most talked about new openings we’ve seen in the city for some time – find out whether it lives up to the hype in our review on page 42. Elsewhere in the issue, we’ve got a round-up of great new books to hibernate with this winter (page 21), delicious recipes fromHaslingfield’s Country Kitchen (page 32), interiors inspiration from

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CAMBRIDGE EDITIONMAGAZINE Bright Publishing Ltd, Bright House, 82 High Street, Sawston, Cambridgeshire CB22 3HJ, 01223 499450, cambsedition.co.uk • All rights reserved. Material contained in this publication may not be reproduced, in whole or in part, without prior permission of the publishers. • Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of Cambridge Edition or Bright Publishing Ltd, which do not accept any liability for loss or damage. • Every effort has been made to ensure all information is correct. • Cambridge Edition is a free publication that is distributed in Cambridge and the surrounding area.

local experts on page 75, plus plenty more besides. Enjoy the issue and see you next month! Nicola Foley EDITOR IN CHIEF

This month’s cover illustration was created by Lucy Woolcomb , designer at Bright Publishing

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53 ● CHRISTMAS SHOPPING GUIDE Take the stress out of Christmas shopping with our shortlist of local gift havens 59 ● EDUCATION EDITION We look at the transition to sixth form and the options available for post-16 education 73 ● HOW DOES YOUR GARDEN GROW? The jobs still left to do in your garden this year 75 ● INTERIORS Discover the latest kitchen design trends 82 ● PROPERTY NEWS Your real estate rundown

8 ● STARTERS Our favourite social media pics for November, plus this month’s wish list from local indies 13 ● WHAT’S ON Christmas lights, lanterns, a new walking guide and a host of arts events 21 ● BOOK CLUB Reading recommendations to cosy up with this month 24 ● INDIE OF THE MONTH A look at the past, present and future of contemporary gallery Byard Art 28 ● FOOD NEWS The latest from the city’s thriving food scene

32 ● RECIPES Haslingfield’s Country Kitchen shares a couple of homely winter warmers 37 ● A TASTE OF SPAIN Mercado Central’s team tells us all about the fabulous restaurant 42 ● RESTAURANT REVIEW We check out the Thai cuisine on offer at Cambridge newbie Giggling Squid 45 ● CHEF’S TABLE Chef Alex Rushmer’s foodie musings for the month of November 47 ● WINTER DINING GUIDE Where to grab a bite as the festive season arrives

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STARTERS

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OUR FAVOURI TE CAMBRIDGE INSTAGRAM PICS OF THE MONTH. HASHTAG # INSTACAMB FOR A CHANCE TO FEATURE !

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A TRIP TO GIGGLING SQUID… NOVEMBER ESSENTIAL

After months of waiting, Thai eatery Giggling Squid has finally opened its doors on Wheeler Street – and a trip to this stunning restaurant is our must-do for November. Housed in the Old Library – the building that used to be Jamie’s Italian – the refurb is spectacular, making full use of this grand space and adding a modern spin, with a bright, floral decor. The menu features fresh, vibrant dishes, including som tam papaya salad and tropical jungle curry. Turn to page 42 for the full review.

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STARTERS

PLUM LOUWALLET £39, Boudoir Femme, King Street

FIG & CARAMELISED HONEY BONBONS £15.58, La Petite Maison

KISSING CLUTCH (LARGE) £25, Ark, Peas Hill

CARD FULL OF LOVE GREETINGS £2.65, Clare Gray Makes via Click It Local

THIS MONTH’S MUST-HAVES FROM LOCAL INDIES

GRAIN CULTURE JAM £4, Grain Culture via Click It Local

CHLOE CHAIR IN PASSIONE SAFFRON £235, Angela Reed, Peas Hill

EVERY NOOKWHISKY AND VANILLA CANDLE £12.50, Lilac Rose, Bridge Street

HAMPER INCLUDING PUKKA TEA, LUXURY CHOCOLATE, ECO TROILETRES &MORE £35, Country Kitchen, Haslingfield

VURCHOO STUDS OF HOPE £30, Podarok, Bene’t Street

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V I RTUAL CI T Y TOURS • MI L L ROAD L ANTERNS • AMP L I FY F I LM F EST I VAL

IMAGE The new Walking Cambridge book is a must when exploring the city on foot

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CULTURE CLUB

MILL ROAD LANTERNS The team behind Mill Road Winter Fair (pictured above) is determined to keep the spirit of the season alight, despite having to cancel the event this December. Funded by new charity Love Mill Road, this year sees the launch of the Mill Road Lanterns community project, celebrating the diverse history and culture of the neighbourhood and highlighting its identity and independence. The dazzling lanterns feature contributions of words and images from local residents and schoolchildren living in the Mill Road area, which have been transformed into ten visual delights by artist and illustrator Penny Sobr. They will be hung in shops on either side of the Mill Road Bridge and illuminated during the first two weeks in December – covering the weekend when this year’s Winter Fair was due to take place. The plan is to add more lanterns as the years go by, representing some of Mill Road’s streets, schools and organisations in a display that will form the core of the community parade in future Winter Fairs. Along with the lanterns project, there is also an illustrated Mill Road Trail launching at the end of this month, depicting the area’s vibrant personality and featuring all of the lantern venues, as well as other places of interest. You can also catch Mill Road Fair Online from 1 to 14 December, which promotes many of the local performers, artists, organisations and charities who would have been there on the day – head to the Mill Road Winter Fair website to find out more. millroadwinterfair.org

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ALFRED WALLIS REDISCOVERED A new exhibition at Kettle’s Yard explores the work of self-taught British artist and mariner Alfred Wallis, whose paintings and drawings depict his direct experiences of the sea and fishing boats, as well as the Cornish coastal landscape. Open from now until 3 January next year, Alfred Wallis Rediscovered is an exploration of the artist’s expressive work, including three sketchbooks made in 1942 – his final year – which have not been exhibited in over fifty years. With no formal training, Wallis turned to painting as a creative outlet following the passing of his wife as a way to cope with feelings of isolation and loneliness. During these challenging times, many visitors may appreciate the idea of art as a means of escape and find comfort in the positive creative potential that the artist was able to extract from such difficult emotions. Kettle’s Yard’s creator Jim Ede had a close friendship with Wallis, over the course of which he amassed over 120 of his paintings. As a result, the gallery now has the most substantial collection of Wallis’ work in the world. Ede said Wallis was “an innocent painter… Each painting was to him a reliving, a re-presenting, achieved unconsciously in regard to the act of painting, but vividly conscious in its factual awareness”. Entry to the exhibition is free, although booking is required via the Kettle’s Yard website. kettlesyard.co.uk/events/alfred-wallis- rediscovered

CHRISTMAS LIGHTS SWITCH-ON

In light of the current situation, this year’s annual Christmas Lights Switch-On will be an online affair. Cambridge BID is working with Star Radio for an afternoon of live festive fun, delivering an event that’s sure to kick off Christmas in Cambridge. Becky Burrell, marketing manager for Cambridge BID, explains: “We hope to bring all the usual fun from the day on-air. We’ll have local community acts perform on the radio and will be encouraging people to enjoy the event from the comfort of their own homes. We will also have a live video stream of the lights being switched on at 5pm.” Star Radio Breakfast presenter Josh Lovatt adds: “Christmas is my favourite time of the year and I’m thrilled to bring the magic into people’s homes. I’m looking forward to playing the festive tunes and giving local groups the chance to perform on the radio.” The festivities are due to take place on Sunday 15 November. For more information, follow Love Cambridge and Star Radio (100.7 FM) on social media. love-cambridge.com

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HISTON HANDMADE MARKETPLACE

RAREFEST GOES VIRTUAL Featuring pioneers in rare disease medicine, the brightest minds in rare disease research and innovators of life-changing tech, this year sees the return of the award-winning RAREfest after a two-year hiatus. The festival provides a unique look into the relatively unknown area of rare disease science, sparking curiosity for those looking to learn more, and amplifying the voices of patients whose powerful voices deserve to be heard. An amalgamation of arts, science and tech, the festival aims to raise awareness of the challenges faced by rare disease science and medicine, in the hope that support and treatment will improve, meaning a brighter future for those affected. RAREfest is an exhibition that educates, engages and empowers people to become advocates for the cause and catalysts for change. Taking place on 28 November, this year’s RAREfest is virtual, with online exhibits, inspiring talks and rare disease-inspired art and films on offer. Tickets for the event are free, and you can register online via Eventbrite. eventbrite.co.uk

Established by jeweller Claire Howieson in 2016, Histon Handmade’s contemporary design and craft fairs have become a mainstay in the calendars of local creatives and exhibitors across Cambridgeshire, with recent events attracting floods of visitors. Of course, given the current circumstances, the upcoming fair in November has had to be cancelled, but all is not lost! Rather than postponing its Christmas 2020 event, Histon Handmade has instead decided to show a stunning selection of items on its new online marketplace, with a variety of pieces frommany of its ever-growing list of exhibitors. From handcrafted jewellery, ceramics, textiles and decorations to original prints, illustrations and quirky gifts, there’s bound to be something that catches your eye. The marketplace is live fromMonday 2 November. histonhandmade.com

Entwined with the story of the royal martyr Edmund, as well as the town of Bury St Edmunds, Bury St Edmunds Abbey’s history is rich and extensive. Celebrating the millennial anniversary of its formal foundation is the St Edmund’s Day Special, an enlightening virtual study day exploring the significance of the site. Taking place on 20 November, the day consists of three virtual sessions, each detailing a period of the abbey’s history. Starting from its foundation in the 10th century, the talks cover the abbey’s expansion and growth over time, chronicling its historical importance all the way through to the post-dissolution era. Justifying its place on the regional, national and international stage, heritage consultant Dr Richard Hoggett will explain why St Edmunds Abbey is one of Suffolk’s most important historic sites, and commemorate this milestone. Each of the three virtual sessions will be one hour in duration, with coffee and lunch breaks in between. Tickets for the St Edmund’s Day Special start from £30 and are available on Eventbrite. eventbrite.co.uk ST EDMUND’S DAY SPECIAL

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Out this month is a new walking guide for Cambridge from independent publisher Metro Publications. More than a mere tourist’s guide, Walking Cambridge is a comprehensive on-foot exploration of Cambridge’s rich and fascinating history, offering eight different routes incorporating many of the city’s most iconic architectural landmarks, as well as some oft-forgotten gems lurking in the city’s streets. As it turns out, Walking Cambridge has been in the works for a long time, says its author, Andrew Kershman. “It’s taken a lot longer than I expected to write the book, as a lot of research had to be done, then once I had planned the routes, they needed to be walked, and that always brought up more things to be researched,” he explains. “It was these things that I discovered while walking the streets that were the most satisfying, as they were often not found in other books.” Among these stories is The Earl of Derby’s history of pigeon racing, which used to take place at the pub every Sunday. “I still have not found a book that mentions this,” Andrew comments, “but I thought it was just the kind of disappearing story that might be of interest to readers.” Cambridge was always high on the publisher’s list of places to explore, and had a particular pull for Andrew. “Cambridge always seemed an exciting and rather glamorous place to explore,” he says. “I thought that I knew the city quite well when I started my research, but as I found out more, I discovered just how little I knew and how much more I had to learn.” And, according to Andrew, walking is the best way to go about it. “The slower you go, the more you notice, and that’s one of the main pleasures of the book, slowing down and exploring Cambridge at the pace of a pedestrian,” he adds. “I hope I’ll manage to surprise a few readers who thought they knew the city and I’m sure I’ll get some suggestions for future walks and things I’ve missed.” The eight walks featured in the book cover the vast majority of the city’s streets, often starting with familiar landmarks and delving into the relatively unknown along the way. “The more I found out, the more I wanted to explore, and so the pattern of the book developed in a kind of organic way,” Andrew continues. “The problem with writing about Cambridge is that there is so much to see and so many stories to tell, so choosing only eight walks was difficult.” And what about favourites? “All of the walks have a special and unique place in my memory and I loved researching all of them,” says Andrew. “I guess if I was on Desert Island Walks and had to save one from the waves, it would be the Town Gate to Turnpike walk. It managed to balance the town and gown in equal measure, includes some great architecture and ends with a monument to the discovery of an ancient treasure that now resides in The FitzwilliamMuseum. There are other close contenders for my heart, but I guess this is my favourite.” The book aims to share the city’s untold stories with readers as they wander around Cambridge, and Andrew is a keen advocate for people exploring the city for themselves. “Nothing compares to actually doing the walks and discovering new things,” he explains. “I walked up to the top of the tower of Great St Mary’s Church when I first started my research and looked out on a place that I thought I knew, but it was only at the end of my work – when I took the same journey – that I realised how much I’d discovered. That view across Cambridge ends the first and last walk in the book, and I hope a few readers enjoy that experience with a similar feeling of awe for the city and its history.” Walking Cambridge is now available to purchase for £11.99 from the Metro Publications website. metropublications.com WALKING CAMBRIDGE

IMAGES Newly- released book Walking Cambridge offers an exploration of the city’s rich history, with eight different walking routes

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VIRTUAL TOUR OF CAMBRIDGE For those of you missing Cambridge, you can get your fix of the city’s best bits on 5 November. Official green-badge Cambridge tourist guide Tanya Yurasova will take you on a colourful virtual walk through the city, relaying fascinating stories of Cambridge’s rich history and heritage. Ideal for anyone who can’t physically visit Cambridge at the moment, the virtual tour even includes a look inside some of the university’s most famous colleges, which are currently closed to the public. Tickets for the virtual tour cost £10 and are available to buy via Eventbrite. eventbrite.co.uk

AMPLIFY! ONLINE FILM FESTIVAL

From 6 to 22 November, catch online film festival AMPLIFY!, a collaborative effort from four of the UK’s largest regional film festivals. Tony Jones and Matthew Webb from Cambridge Film Festival said: “2020 would have marked the 40th Cambridge Film Festival and it is only right that during these times we are working side by side with FilmBath, Brighton Cinecity and Cornwall Film Festival to offer an exciting film experience for you all.” The full programme is available to view now - for 10% off tckets, use code ‘LoveCambridge’. amplifyfilm.org.uk

‘EAT OUT TO HELP OUT ’ AT LOCKHOUSE Looking for something fun to do in central Cambridge? Inspired by the Eat Out to Help Out scheme, LockHouse Escape Games has come up with its very own special offer: Get Out to Help Out! On Mondays through to Wednesdays, you can save up to 50% on all of the escape rooms. The games masters are there to offer a fully-immersive storytelling experience, and will be on hand to give you tips and hints with the puzzles if you need. You can also combine your trip with a visit to one of the great restaurants in Cambridge (many of which are also extending their Eat Out to Help Out deals). An escape room is a perfect way to build up an appetite before dinner out, or alternatively makes for a fun after dinner activity. Visit the LockHouse website for more information and to book your slot. Groups of two or three players can use code GETOUT25 to get 25% off, and code GETOUT50 for 50% off games with four or more players. lockhouse.co.uk/get-out-to-help-out

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BOOK CLUB

CAMBRIDGE EDI T ION

AS THE DARKER NIGHTS DRAW IN, IT’S EVEN MORE IMPORTANT TO HAVE A CRACKING BOOK ON THE GO TO KEEP YOU COMPANY – SO WE’VE ROUNDED UP A HANDFUL OF RECENT RELEASES TO ADD TO YOUR #TOREAD PILE

WORDS BY CHARLOTTE GRIFFITHS

THE SEARCHER (OUT 5 NOV)

fitting for its stunning setting in the Irish countryside – yet all this beauty and hope is masterfully dotted by French with the occasional, unsettling prickle of doubt and uncertainty, as if you’ve seen something sinister scuttle across the edge of your vision, and shake your head to brush it off. But, as Hooper ends up wondering, what is real anyway – and did he really want a quiet life? This book challenges conventions and reveals ill- meant truths, well-meaning lies: friends who turn out to be less than promised and strangers who become closer than family – adding up to make this, like all books from French, into an absolutely perfect winter read.

BY TANA FRENCH Revealing too much about this fantastic new work from Tana French – arguably one of our greatest living mystery writers – will give away the thrill of staring, open- mouthed, as its languid, drawn-out, razor- sharp plot unravels, exquisitely. Suffice to say that protagonist Cal Hooper, newly retired from the Chicago PD, recovering from a grim divorce and hoping for a quiet life renovating a project house in a remote Irish village, does not quite get what he hopes for. The characters he encounters are truly believable, and the slow, almost meditative pace of the beginning of the novel is perfectly

Right If you fancy a mystery to cosy up with this winter, why not try The Searcher by Tana French? Set in the Irish countryside, it tells the story of a retired police officer from Chicago trying to find a missing person

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BOOK CLUB

KEEP MOVING (OUT NOW)

BY MAGGIE SMITH If you’ve been online through the pandemic, you’ve probably read the exquisite poem Good Bones by Maggie Smith – a true national treasure, but the one who’s an author from Ohio, rather than the octogenarian megastar actor. Written in 2016, Good Bones became a small shard of white-hot hope, shared voraciously by word-lovers looking for meaning in post-tragedy senselessness. This new work builds on that hopefulness in a series of heart-filling quotes and essays, fragments held together with pure gold, finding the opportunity for growth and expansion in the face of terror and sadness. As the book’s blurb itself says: “ Keep Moving celebrates the beauty and strength that’s found on the other side of loss… and is for anyone who has gone through a difficult time and is wondering: what comes next?’’ A stunning and truly helpful gift for anyone who might be struggling, or in need of a little hope.

Right This collection of hopeful quotes and essays by Maggie Smith is the perfect gift for someone who might have found lockdown particularly difficult

“Snow makes a familiar place strange… it can seem to rewrite reality”

FIFTY WORDS FOR SNOW

Loss is a haunting theme for the book: the foreword reveals that, as the author began to compile this list of words, her partner Anna suffered a major stroke. Campbell worked on the book through a long and difficult winter at Anna’s bedside while she recovered from severe aphasia, with her words returning in fragmented and “often puzzling” form – leaving the author to wonder even more about the complexities presented by vanishing vocabularies, and the sheer power of a single word. The fifty sections of this project contain linguistic analysis, geographic records, folk stories, economic history, references to art, film, music – it’s so much more than simply a wonderful gift for a weather-lover, or anyone curious about the origins of language. An ideal wintery bedside companion that’s packed tight with information, Campbell should be applauded for the extraordinary amount of research that’s been distilled into each of the book’s sparkling, fascinating chapters.

(OUT 5 NOV) BY NANCY CAMPBELL

Compiled by Nancy Campbell, the title of this beautiful book plays on the (now- disproven) myth about the multiple Inuit words for snow, and sets out to dig deep into the drift of knowledge that can be extrapolated from different languages’ terms for the soft, cold, white rain that falls from the sky in the winter months. As anyone who’s spent an early morning in Cambridge after a snowfall will know, and as Campbell writes in her introduction, “Snow makes a familiar place strange... it can seem to rewrite reality, concealing, clothing, cleansing or suspending the landscape. It muffles. It shrouds.” Finished under lockdown, Campbell voyaged around the world through dictionaries and extensive research: not an unfamiliar activity for someone who had previously researched glacial ice, travelling north of the Arctic Circle to do so – this wonderful work is a fantastic exploration

Above Nancy Campbell digs deep into the meanings, etymologies and histories of 50 international words for snow

of language, but also a record of what we might be soon to miss, if climates continue to change and snowfalls become even less frequent.

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LUCY CAVENDISH FICTION PRIZE 2020 SHORTLIST ANNOUNCED

THE 2020 SHORTLIST

Bibi Berki – The Watch

Emma Barlow – Message Received

Exciting news for book fans both within our city and across the world as Lucy Cavendish College, part of Cambridge University, has published its annual shortlist for its prestigious fiction prize. Six authors have made the cut, making it the second biggest year yet – over 400 entries were whittled down to this final few. In Edition Book Club’s opinion, it’s always worth learning the names of the writers who make the shortlist: many of the authors from previous years have gone on to be published, some to huge international acclaim – including Sara Collins, who was shortlisted for the prize in 2016 for The Confessions of Frannie Langton , now published and an absolutely superb read. So, here are the next crop of authors and novels to add to your list!

Aoife Fitzpatrick – An Arrangement in Grey and Black

Francesca Steele – The Group

Susan Stokes-Chapman – Pandora

Laure Van Rensburg – Eden Lost

Each shortlisted entrant is a previously unpublished author over the age of 21, who has submitted the first 40-50 pages of their novel and a three- to five-page synopsis. Open to all women, the prize is looking for “literary merit” and “unputdownability”. If you’ve got a book in your head, perhaps next year’s shortlist could feature your work?

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INDEPENDENT OF THE MONTH

INDI E OF THE MONTH B yard Art THIS WELCOMING, CONTEMPORARY GALLERY OFFERS A DIVERSE RANGE OF ARTWORKS – AND THEIR ADMIRERS – A PLACE TO CALL HOME

WORDS BY FRANCES MCNAUGHTON

gallery manager at Byard Art. “One of the highlights in the gallery is our sparkling array of innovative contemporary jewellery, which we have displayed over three floor-to-ceiling glass cabinets.” Whether you’re looking for a delicate handcrafted necklace or a striking centrepiece for your living room wall, the gallery’s extensive collection is always being updated and added to, so you can be sure to find something new to browse each time you visit. Byard Art hosts up to ten exhibitions a year, ranging from solo shows to mixed and themed exhibitions. Slowly but surely, it has established an international reputation for itself. The gallery is frequently chosen to participate in major art fairs all over the world, with its diverse and often unusual collections garnering fans across the globe. “We’re really excited to be one of 50 hand-selected galleries to take part in the first-ever global online Affordable Art Fair,” Jess enthuses. Running until 29 November, the fair will see Byard Art showcase works from ten of its gallery artists in ten key marketplaces across four continents. Many of the gallery’s artists have become wildly popular with clients as far afield as New York and Hong Kong, and its collections continue to attract art enthusiasts both home and away. Like many independent businesses in the city this year, Byard Art was faced with the challenge of turning a dramatic

ince 1998, Cambridge has been home to Byard Art, a bright and inviting art gallery with an ever- changing exhibition programme. Displaying an array of works from almost 200 contemporary artists, the gallery has become a cornerstone of the city’s arts scene, offering a distinctly personal experience for visitors and collectors alike. First opened in 1993 in Nottingham’s Byard Lane, the gallery was originally situated on the top floor of a Victorian lace factory, where it began specialising in visual and applied arts. Five years later, the business relocated to a gallery space on St Mary’s Passage in central Cambridge, which provided a permanent showcase of original artwork by gallery artists, and allowed for expansion in the corporate and public sectors. In 2009, after more than two decades of commercial success, Byard Art moved into its current home on King’s Parade and now boasts more than 1000 square feet of exhibition space. This has enabled the gallery to host a rolling exhibition programme alongside its permanent collection of gallery artists. Displayed over two floors of calm, spacious gallery, Byard Art’s dynamic exhibition programme showcases original paintings, sculptures, ceramics and craftwork, as well as mixed media artwork and limited-edition prints. “It’s not just the pictures on the walls that are worth looking at,” says Jess White,

drop in footfall into an opportunity for innovation. “Over the past six months, with less visitors to the city, we have worked hard behind the scenes, thinking of ways to bring art collections to people in the safety of their own homes,” says Jess. To ensure that nobody missed out on the fabulous works on display in the gallery, the team invested in an innovative new app called Art Visualiser, which utilises cutting-edge augmented reality technology so you can see how your favourite works would look hanging on your wall. “The app allows clients to see artwork in their own homes,” Jess explains. “It’s all true to scale and the artworks can be tried in any room.” The gallery also offers a bespoke framing service, fronted by long- established framer Andy Miller, so you can get your artworks professionally framed. “Our knowledgeable staff are

“One of the highlights is our sparkling array of contemporary jewellery”

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INDEPENDENT OF THE MONTH

IMAGES Situated on King’s Parade, Byard Art is an innovative gallery, displaying ever-changing collections of contemporary and traditional pieces

committed to offering the finest range of traditional and contemporary bespoke handmade picture frames,” explains Jess. “We can show you an extensive range of samples of the highest quality frames and mounts to select from.” Looking to the future, Byard Art hopes to continue bringing vibrant art collections to Cambridge, showcasing fantastic work and enriching the city’s art scene. “We really enjoy having personal contact with our clients,” adds Jess. “We’re always happy to answer any questions, discuss our upcoming exhibitions and art fairs, and talk all things art-related.” Byard Art | 14 King’s Parade | 01223 464646 byardart.co.uk

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GASTRO GOINGS ON • COUNTRY K I TCHEN RECI PES • GIGGL ING SQU I D REV I EW

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FOOD & DR INK

A MONTHLY ROUND-UP OF GASTRO GOINGS-ON AROUND CAMBRIDGESHIRE

CHELSEA BUN CLUB Calling all Fitzbillies fiends! The recently launched chelsea bun subscription service is here to steal the top spot on your Christmas wish list. Fitzbillies’ famously sticky chelsea buns have become nothing short of iconic over the years, so it’s only right that you should be able to get them delivered to your door every month. Each box contains four of the syrupy sweet treats along with a postcard telling the story of Fitzbillies and, if you sign up for the six-month or full-year subscription, you can get a special tote bag and the Fitzbillies book thrown in, too!

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FOOD & DR INK

Much-loved independent coffee roaster Hot Numbers has once again partnered with global charity event The Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride, which brings together classic motorcycle enthusiasts to dress up in their most dapper suits and ride together to raise funds (and awareness) of prostate cancer research,

men’s mental health and suicide prevention. Last

year’s event saw 200 riders set off from Hot Numbers to ride around Cambridge and surrounding villages in their Sunday best. This year, the cafe has found another way to support the cause. A special home-roasted charity coffee blend is on sale across its cafes to raise funds for the charity, so you’ll have yet another reason to head to Hot Numbers for your morning brew.

LOCAL COMPANIES SHINE AT THE GREAT TASTE AWARDS

three gold stars for its organic molecular gin and absinthe. Crafted and finely tuned at a molecular level, Linden Leaf creates exquisite spirits and unique single-note essences. The Great Taste Awards dubbed its absinthe ‘a non plus ultra’, so if you’re looking for a unique gift for a cocktail connoisseur, you might want to give it a try! Last but not least, The Saffron Ice Cream Company in Saffron Walden scooped up another two awards this year, with its traditional chocolate and Summerdown Farmmint chocolate proving to be winners with the judges. Production manager Harry Bond commented: “We’re very proud to have won at this year’s awards. We strive to source the best ingredients from producers as passionate as us. A lot of time and effort is put into every batch and it’s nice to have the recognition of our dedication.” If you’re interested in seeing the full list of gold- star winners across Cambridgeshire, head over to the Great Taste Awards website. greattasteawards.co.uk

This year’s Great Taste Awards has seen several of our region’s finest food companies win gold stars for their produce. Huntingdon-based Olive Olive’s cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil made the cut, along with its Cyprus Village halloumi cheese. Cambridge Bake Off’s 2015 winner The Baking Jin also made the list, winning a gold star for his strawberry cake roll, a deliciously fresh and fruity Japanese swiss roll. Carrying on the baking success, Jigsaw Bakery won a gold star for its bakewell tart, with its mixture of squidgy filling, crisp pastry and tangy raspberry jam. But there were a few local companies who really shone at this year’s awards. No stranger to a Great Taste gold star (or 20!), Corkers added to its impressive list of awards with another five wins this year. Based just outside Ely, Corkers is showing no signs of letting its crisp crown slip, and pretty much every flavour of its sunflower oil hand-cooked potato crisps earns another star from the judges. Owing to its stellar creations, Linden Leaf Botanicals – a spirit and essence distiller – garnered

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STERLING SCOOPS

Although you might struggle wrapping up some ice cream and putting it under the tree, you can still treat your ice-cream loving friends and family to a scoop of their favourite flavour this festive season. Jack’s Gelato is now offering ‘cone coins’, an innovative gift voucher system. The freshly minted sterling coins are available to buy at both Jack’s Gelato shops in the city – a silver coin (£2.50) gets you a single scoop, or you can double up with a gold coin (£4.50).

PIZZA ON TOUR

Most likely found touring the east of England to spread joy in pizza form, Sam Corban’s 400° Pizzeria transforms homemade dough into delicious wood-fired pizzas. Based in Cambourne, the pizzeria can bring authentic Italian pizzas to you wherever you are; all of the pizzas are stretched and cooked on-site, so you can be sure you’re getting a top-notch pizza every time. If you’d like 400° Pizzeria to bring its pizza-firing goodness to a spot near you, head to the website to request a pop-up. 400degrees.co.uk

SPICING IT UP Spice up your festive celebrations this year with some chilli goodness from Ntsama’s. The Cambridgeshire chilli company’s products take the finest scotch bonnet chillies and turn them into daringly spicy oils and sauces – perfect for adding that extra heat when it’s cold outside. The ideal Christmas stocking filler for the chef of the household, the gift sets include Ntsama’s cult classic chilli, zesty lemon and thyme, and fiery ginger and garlic, so seekers of sensational flavour combinations won’t be disappointed. ntsama.co.uk

NEW TAPROOM IN TOWN Local brewery Calverley’s has just upsized! The new taproom on Hooper Street ( just off Mill Road) has recently opened for business, with a brand-new booking system in place so you can reserve your table in advance. The brewery has also teamed up with Scott’s All Day, meaning you can now get delicious pizzas to enjoy with your small batch beers, or you can catch Steak & Honour’s burger van from 5pm until 8pm on Fridays. Head to the website to book your slot. calverleys.com

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A t aste of the Country Kitc h en THE TEAM AT THE MUCH-LOVED HASLINGFIELD SHOP TELL US ABOUT THEIR BUSINESS AND SHARE SOME FAVOURITE RECIPES RECIPES

WORDS & PHOTOS BY NICOLA FOLEY

quite a few people have gone back to the supermarkets, which is disappointing,” Alex comments. “But we’ve got a niche, and people that like to support us will continue to come.” Looking to the future, and as well as eventually being able to offer online ordering, the team have one simple goal in mind: to encourage as many people as possible to shop local. “We want to show people that although we’re a bit niche, we’re competitively priced and we’ve got a huge range – we’ve got environmentally friendly products, gluten-free and dairy- free products, lots of vegan products. If people give us notice, we can get whatever veg or meat they want in – we can order fish in from Marrfish in Bishop’s Stortford which is really fresh, and we’re constantly honing our range to get it the best we can,” concludes Alex. “And we’re always looking for great local producers that we can bring to the shop!”

“We stayed open throughout and started offering free delivery – we still are for people in the village who are self- isolating,” explains Alex. “It was quite a stressful experience”, adds Jill. “There was the whole pastagate thing, and every night through lockdown we were trying to get stock from our suppliers. We were quite lucky in that they’d usually set aside X amount of pasta or flour for us because we have a good working relationship. Overall, we were busier and moving more stock, but we had fewer staff on, which added to the stress…” A trend that was widely reported during lockdown was the switch consumers made from big supermarkets to supporting smaller, independent businesses – something that the Country Kitchen team saw first-hand. Whether this represents a permanent shift in shopping habits remains to be seen, however. “Some people are still trying to shop local, definitely, but we did notice that

ountry Kitchen represents everything that’s great about local, independent shopping. Nestled in the village of Haslingfield, the

shop is instantly inviting with its cerulean blue paintwork, while inside is floor-to- ceiling packed with top-quality food, drink, gifts and bits for the home. From artisan gin to eco soap, speciality vegan products and weighty loaves of Fitzbillies’ finest, you could easily lose an hour in here browsing, and the smell of freshly baked sausage rolls and steaming soups from the back are guaranteed to ensure you don’t leave empty handed or hungry. At the helm of this thriving business, which started life in 2013, are Heather Scally, Jill Broadbent, Alex Sigsworth and Claire Bush, a group of women that share a passion for fantastic Cambridgeshire produce. All four live locally and are dedicated to serving their community – something that took on even greater importance during lockdown.

IMAGES Country Kitchen is full of artisan products, including marmalade, candles and lip balm, making it a great place to shop for presents

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RECIPE CLAIRE’S BREAD PUDDING A HOMELY ENGLISH PUD THAT’S PERFECT SUNDAY- NIGHT COMFORT FOOD INGREDIENTS • 1 ½ large loaves of bread • 500g mixed dried fruit • 140g soft brown sugar • 2 tbsp mixed spice • 250g salted butter • 600ml milk • 2 eggs • 3 or 4 tbsp demerara sugar as required • 1 bottle cider or beer (250ml approx), optional STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE: 1. If using alcohol, soak the fruit in a bowl overnight. 2. Break up the bread and add the other dry ingredients. Mix well. 3. Melt the butter and add it to the milk and then add in the beaten eggs. Pour the liquids on to the dry ingredients and stir in well. It should be quite mushy. 4. Line a brownie tin with greaseproof paper and fill with the mixture. Push down with the back of a tablespoon and then sprinkle with the demerara sugar. 5. Bake at 180°C for 50 minutes or until the centre has set. 6. Wait to cool before cutting into pieces.

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RECIPE PEA & MINT SOUP A CREAMY, CLASSIC SOUP BEST SERVED WITH CRUSTY BREAD AND LOTS OF BUTTER INGREDIENTS • 1 1/2 large brown onions, finely chopped • 2 tbsp olive oil • 500g frozen peas • 2 courgettes, chopped into small pieces • 1 veg stock cube dissolved in 1 litre boiling water • Bunch of mint, chopped STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE: 1. Heat oil and then sweat the onions gently in the oil without browning until softened. 2. A dd the courgette and peas and sweat gently for a further five minutes. 3. A dd vegetable stock to generously cover. 4. S immer until everything is soft. 5. S tir in chopped mint. 6. Liquidise or use a hand blender until smooth 7. A dd salt and pepper to taste.

COUNTRY KITCHEN HASLINGFIELD Specialising in homemade food, locally sourced produce and unique gifts, you can find the Country Kitchen at 21 Church Street in Haslingfield. ckhaslingfield.co.uk

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A taste of S p ain CHARLOTTE GRIFFITHS HEADS TO MERCADO CENTRAL TO SEE HOW THE RESTAURANT IS BRINGING SPANISH CUISINE TO OUR PLATES INTERVIEW

Two of the restaurant’s management team, Mark Hughes and Daniel ‘Dani’ Grana Duran, lead me up and down the stairs in their beautiful restaurant, introducing me to their many chefs, showing me produce in the fridges, and then remembering something exciting back up two floors that they have to show off right now. Their pride and enthusiasm is evident in every step we take around the listed building. Mark runs bars in Madrid and London, while Dani is best known to Cambridge’s foodies as the man behind Pata Negra Spanish Food. His background in supplying the hospitality trade with fine foods and ingredients, honed while working in the music business and touring with bands (“a music tour that turned into a food tour”, Mark jokes about his friend), means he’s perfectly placed to locate

he old maxim is true: there are two sides to every story. Mercado Central is a restaurant that was years, even decades in the making.

Yet to Cambridge’s food fans, it seemed to appear on Green Street almost overnight, opening its doors with minimal fuss just before Christmas 2019 and immediately winning an army of supporters. It serves Spanish food with nods to the British seasons, using the finest produce money can buy from both countries. Step through the door and you’d be forgiven for thinking you were in Madrid, or London’s Soho – the pin-sharp interiors, the Spanish team’s beaming smiles as they cook in the open kitchen, or the array of fresh fish on the ice bar at weekends: it’s only the unique views of the picturesque, cobbled Green Street that root you in central Cambridge.

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a lot of issues with it – though, the good thing about it is that it’s independently owned and we weren’t dealing with the university. I felt that we could really negotiate the deal: we had time to do it at a personal level,” adds Dani. “Though, the building was falling down. It took us almost two years to get here.” Mark continues: “It was about a year to find it, and a year to sign the contract. It was just the issues with the place when we got it. It was a hard job to find a place in the centre of Cambridge where you could open up an independent restaurant. We held out for the right place, and this wasn’t perfect, but it was available and we thought we could make it work. “We’d rather have more independent restaurants around us: there are a few on the same street as us, but we’d love more - if there’s a bigger food scene, more people will come out.” Mercado Central’s kitchens are now two flights downstairs, in what used to be Lotus Thai’s lower dining room. Here, the once dark space has been transformed into a bustling, bright white kitchen – packed with chefs from Valencia and San Sebastian preparing an exquisite array of produce from throughout Spain. “Everything is completely and utterly prepared from scratch,” Mark says, as the chefs move between stations. “The beef we get – it sounds a bit hipster-boring – but we always know where it came from, when it was killed and what it ate. The fish: on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, we have an ice display with fresh fish caught off the coast of Cornwall. Whatever our suppliers catch, we take, and we always serve the whole fish, prepared really simply, grilled, with lemon, garlic and olive oil. It’s all very much Spanish and British, the best of both.

the very best version of pretty much any foodstuff you can name. “Dani and I first met getting drunk in The Three Horseshoes,” Mark grins, “having been introduced by a mutual friend because we’d both lived in Madrid. We got on really well, then I moved away, but ended up living back here again because Lee, my twin brother, lives here. Dani was the first person I met up with when I got back, and he suggested we look at doing something together.” Dani had always wanted to have a restaurant of his own. “I have a friend who came to England to play football – Gaizka Mendieta, who used to play for Middlesbrough – and he was interested in investing as well,” Dani explains. Along with Mark’s brother Lee, this quartet formed the main team behind the business. But like most new ventures opening in our city, it took a long time to find the right property. “We looked at this building and thought it was interesting, but there were

“We also do anchovies: most people buy them in tins, in olive oil, but what we do is get them from a place called Santoña in Cantabria, where you get the best anchovies in the world. There, they’d salt them in barrels. Now we can’t get the barrels – logistically it’s a bit difficult – but we get them packed in salt. We clean them, desalinate them, and then put the olive oil on them. When people come and you only get a few anchovies, they think it’s expensive for a little plate of food… but in Spain, this would cost you a fortune. They’re a delicacy.” Explaining the value of their food is a real focus for the Mercado Central team. “Our restaurant is all about education,” Mark says. “It’s hard: on a Friday or Saturday night, you can’t talk to everyone, and staff come and go – so trying to train them is difficult – but our business is all about explaining this,” he gestures to the anchovies. “This is what we do.” Their menu is packed with Spanish classics like paella and tortilla – the word tapas is eschewed in favour of sharing plates, emphasising the welcoming feel to a dining experience – and every single aspect of each dish has been carefully

IMAGES The chefs, including culinary talent from Valencia and San Sebastian, prepare authentic Spanish dishes before your eyes

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considered. “We make paella in the way they make it in Valencia: it’s not a holiday paella,” Mark explains. “Basically, you have it in a little tin – the idea is to have a thin layer of rice, and you want the rice to stick to the bottom. Where it sticks with the stock is where you get all the flavour. It’s called socarrat.” It’s this sort of detail, this passion for flavour and ingredients, that comes across in every bite of Mercado Central’s food, or snippet of conversation with the co-owners. “He’s really done his homework,” Mark says of Dani’s seemingly limitless knowledge of Spanish foodstuffs, gently teasing his business partner. “And one ingredient or another might run out at some point, but we’ll have it until we don’t. And we’re so seasonal – take the salad – each month we have it with different produce, say, blood oranges because they’re only around for a month or so.” The perfect way to demonstrate the attention to detail is by describing the process involved in Mercado Central’s neat tortilla: “Most people will have a tortilla on holiday, and it’s not done right – it’s set in the middle,” Mark begins. “The way

“You’ve got to feel at home – that’s what we’re here for”

restaurant,” Mark says. “We try to have nice, informal service but we mainly want people to come here, eat some good food and have a laugh – we’re not pretentious. It’s got to be informal, it’s got to be fun: we have people who come here and sit for five hours to have lunch. You’ve got to feel at home – that’s what we’re here for. The food’s got to have integrity, but it’s got to be fun as well.” Though it has continued to enjoy success, the past few months have been extremely tough for the hospitality industry, and Mercado Central did not go unscathed. The restaurant was closed for a full five months, utilising the government’s furlough scheme to keep its employees on the books and reopening to offer the Eat Out to Help Out scheme

it’s supposed to be in northern Spain is where it’s loose in the middle – creamy inside, but cooked enough. And to do that, you have to find the best eggs. We get special eggs from Stow-on-the-Wold, laid by chickens called Arlington Whites. We agreed we could only do this tortilla in England if we found the right eggs, otherwise we wouldn’t do it.” Their chefs then confit onions for hours until they’re dramatically reduced in quantity, then fry potato crisps – homemade, of course – before mixing the crisps, onions and eggs together, and combining the tortilla from there. It’s a labour of love – like everything that comes out of Mercado Central’s kitchen. “I think for Cambridge we’re quite different: we’re much more like a London

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