Cambridge Edition October 2020 - Web



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EDITORIAL Editor in chief Nicola Foley 01223 499459 Editorial assistant Frances McNaughton 01223 499469 Editorial director Roger Payne Chief sub editor Beth Fletcher Sub editor Elisha Young ADVERTISING Group ad manager Sam Scott-Smith 01223 499457 Sales executive Lucy McNally 01223 492248 CONTRIBUTORS Charlotte Griffiths, Charlotte Phillips, Alex Rushmer and Anna Taylor DESIGN & PRODUCTION Designer Lucy Woolcomb Ad production Man-Wai Wong MANAGING DIRECTORS Andy Brogden & Matt Pluck

ith Covid-19 restrictions tightening up again, the city’s main venues all still closed and the weather cooling, we’re likely to be spending a fair bit of time at home over the coming weeks. With that in mind, this issue has inspiration for cosying up your interiors (page 77), cooking up hearty feasts (page 27) and a round-up of the top new novels to curl up with this autumn (page 19). If, however, you do want to get out and about, there’s definitely enough to keep you busy – as we discover in our What’s On pages. Thumb your way to page 13 to find out about the reopening of Kettle’s Yard and Saffron Screen, plus virtual culture you can enjoy from under your duvet, as we bring you news of Cambridge Literary Festival’s online event and Cambridge University’s partnership with Google. Halloween fans might not be able to throw a party or go trick or treating this month, but they can still get their spooky kicks at events including punting ghost tours, pumpkin picking and Scaresville – an immersive horror experience that really isn’t for the faint of heart! If your holiday plans have been scuppered but you’re still keen for a night away, check out our round-up of spectacular staycations, all of which are within a couple of hours’ drive of Cambridge. From seaside glam at Southwold’s most famous hotel, to a country manor reborn in Norfolk, we’ve got the inside tips on East Anglia’s most beautiful boltholes to escape to on page 55. Also in this issue, a unique weddings special sees local suppliers reflect on the impact the pandemic has had on the industry, and we hear from Cambridge couples who had their Big Day plans turned upside down. From panicked rescheduling and drastic scaling down exercises to unexpected silver linings, read



CAMBRIDGE EDITIONMAGAZINE Bright Publishing Ltd, Bright House, 82 High Street, Sawston, Cambridgeshire CB22 3HJ, 01223 499450, • All rights reserved. Material contained in this publication may not be reproduced, in whole or in part, without prior permission of the publishers. • Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of Cambridge Edition or Bright Publishing Ltd, which do not accept any liability for loss or damage. • Every effort has been made to ensure all information is correct. • Cambridge Edition is a free publication that is distributed in Cambridge and the surrounding area.

their stories from page 45. As ever, we’ve also got news on all the latest foodie openings and events (page 35), top picks from indie shops (page 9) and lots more besides. Enjoy the issue and see you next month! Nicola Foley EDITOR IN CHIEF

This month’s cover illustration was created by Lucy Woolcomb , designer at Bright Publishing, based on a photograph by Leif Moore.


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8 ● STARTERS This month’s wish list from local indies, plus our favourite social media pics of the month 11 ● WHAT’S ON A virtual literary festival, art shows and other top cultural goings-on in town 19 ● BOOK CLUB The season for curling up with a good read has arrived, so here’s a bumper autumn book special! 23 ● HALLOWEEN Spooktacular events for the family this October 27 ● RECIPES A selection of recipes from Cambridgeshire farms from new cookbook For the Love of the Land 35 ● FOOD NEWS New openings, re-openings, events and other tasty tidbits from the local food scene 41 ● CHEF’S TABLE Chef Alex Rushmer shares what’s been going on in his kitchen, and brain, over the past month

43 ● RESTAURANT REVIEW We pay a visit to Mill Road’s Prana to give our verdict on its sophisticated Indian cuisine 45 ● WEDDING SPECIAL Local suppliers and Cambridge couples reflect on the impact Covid-19 has had on weddings 53 ● HEALTH & WELLNESS A new fitness studio in Ely, plus news of F45’s latest timetable addition 55 ● STAYCATIONS With international travel off the menu, we round up some of East Anglia’s top minibreak locations

61 ● EDUCATION SPECIAL We look at how schools are reimagining open days in light of the pandemic 67 ● EDUCATION SPOTLIGHT Gretton School reflects on a unique back-to-school experience for its students 69 ● RADIO GAGA The presenters from Cambridge 105’s breakfast show tell us about their month in community radio 71 ● HOME EDITION Gardening tips, our indie of the month, how to create cosy interiors for autumn and more


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Give your wardrobe a makeover without breaking the bank at the Worth The Weight Vintage Sale, taking place on 3 October at St Paul’s Church on Hills Road. Featuring thousands of quality vintage items, shoppers pay £15 per kilo, taking their pick from a vast selection of men’s and women’s clothing and accessories from the 1960s to 1990s. Eager shoppers should snap up an early-bird ticket, which ensures queue jump and fast-track entry (£3). The sale runs from 11am to 7pm. Search Worth The Weight Vintage on Facebook. ONE TO TRY WORTH THE WEIGHT SALE


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ENVELOPE CLUTCH now £28, Ark, Peas Hill

BIRTHDAY BUNS & BOOK £20, Fitzbillies, Trumpington Street

LUXURY CHOCOLATE BOX from £17.50, Hill St, All Saints Passage


MEDIUM AIR BALLOON £39.50, Angela Reed, Peas Hill


AROUND THEWORLD IN 80 COCKTAILS £12.99, Lilac Rose, Bridge Street

YOU LOOK GOOD SIGN £175, Buck & Bear,

MUSTARD LEATHER BOOK POUCH £25, Podarok, Bene’t Street


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IMAGE Kettle’s Yard reopens and there’s still time to catch its Linderism exhibition


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This month at Byard Art you can catch the much-anticipated solo exhibition of works by Norfolk-based artist Garry Raymond- Pereira. Garry specialises in painting peaceful scenes in nature from across the UK, from local landscapes here in East Anglia to stunning expanses of coastline and mountain ranges in Wales and the Lake District, as well as tranquil lochs in the Scottish Highlands. His paintings capture the cool emptiness of many of the landscapes, conveying the desolate tranquillity that often characterises a solo trek. The exhibition of new works runs from 8 October until 1 November. It’s also your last chance to see the exhibition of works by Beckie Reed, a Cambridgeshire-based artist whose alluring treescapes have garnered fans across the globe. Her work is on show until 4 October. OCTOBER AT BYARD ART


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Community cinema Saffron Screen reopened in September, following a hiatus due to Covid-19. The team has been hard at work ensuring the cinema is safe to welcome guests, implementing new measures including one-way systems, spread out seating, cleaning between screenings, reduced capacity in the auditorium and temperature checking for staff and customers on arrival. “The safety of our customers, staff and volunteers is a priority,” explains Saffron Screen’s business manager, Jenny Hemsley. “We want everyone to fall back in love with the big screen experience. We know not everyone will be able to come back straight away, so will be continuing our popular online programme, but the team is excited to welcome back those who can come. We are very grateful to the community for their continued support throughout this crisis and we hope Saffron Screen can remain at the heart of the community for many years to come.” Coming up for October is Hope Gap , which stars Annette Bening and Bill Nighy as a couple separating after 29 years together, and Love Sarah , a charming drama about a young woman determined to open her late mother’s dream bakery in Notting Hill, with the help of her eccentric grandmother (Celia Imrie). Keep an eye out for Rocks , too, which is a moving portrait of family dynamics and friendship, as seen through the eyes of a group of schoolgirls. Other highlights include Monsoon , director Hong Khaou’s follow-up to 2014’s beautiful Lilting , plus family favourites including Sonic the Hedgehog and Dreambuilders . Screenings are at Saffron Hall, a performance venue in Saffron Walden with 200 seats, Dolby Digital surround sound and 35mm and digital projection equipment. Ticket and refreshment prices are kept low and parking is free.


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After attracting more than 5,500 visits from over 50 countries with the digital version of its Spring Festival earlier this year, Cambridge Literary Festival has announced it is running a Winter Online Festival between 19-22 November. The online offering is set to be just as exciting as the face-to-face festival, with a fully loaded programme of events. CAMBRIDGE LITERARY FEST GOES DIGITAL

Back in April, Cambridge Literary Festival was forced to adapt its spring programme of events – and fast. “We were one of the first festivals scheduled to run after lockdown, so we had to pivot to digital very quickly,” says Cathy Moore, Cambridge Literary Festival director. Within just a few weeks, the teammanaged to rescue around a dozen of the events, and the spring festival went ahead under a new digital guise. “The response we received after the spring festival was great,” Cathy adds, “we even attracted audiences from as far afield as New Zealand, Colombia and Poland.” As there is still a degree of uncertainty in the air, it was decided that the winter festival would also be an online affair. But this doesn’t mean there’ll be any shortage of excitement. “We’re doing a few things differently this time,” explains Cathy. “We’re mixing up the formats, making some short films and recording in homes.” The festival’s brand-new upgraded website is due to launch in mid- October, too, just in time to host the festival’s diverse array of exciting and exclusive events. This year’s winter festival is jam-packed with familiar faces, as well as a few newcomers to the UK’s ever-growing literary scene. “We will reflect on significant global events, literary prizes and anniversaries plus arts, culture and poetry, as well as the festival’s particular blend of issues and stories. There are many highlights about which I am hugely excited,” enthuses Cathy. Some of this year’s most exciting events feature household names, such as Matt Haig, who is introducing his life-affirming new novel The Midnight Library , and comedian David Mitchell, who is discussing his latest book Dishonesty Is the Second-Best Policy , as well as tackling some of the most prominent political issues of today in his characteristically humorous way. Kadiatu Kanneh-Mason – matriarch of the most musical family in Britain – is online to talk about her new book, chronicling the roles of race, immigration and education in a moving story about family, music and love. There is also an event with celebrated artist Maggi Hambling, which promises to be a wonderfully unique occasion. Filmed at her studio in Suffolk, the event celebrates the release of A Suffolk Eye , a long-awaited publication that brings together the works of Maggi’s father, visionary artist Harry Hambling. And that’s not all. As usual, the festival features several prizes and prize winners: the new Poet Laureate Simon Armitage is launching the Laurel Prize, celebrating poetry surrounding nature, climate and environmental issues, the winner of the Goldsmiths Prize is making an appearance and the festival is also hosting the six shortlisted writers for the Baillie Gifford Prize for Non-Fiction, just a few days before the winner is announced. Cambridge Literary Festival has always been committed to getting children excited about books from an early age, and this November’s digital offering is no different. The weekend after the festival, there is a slew of free, family-friendly events to look forward to – including an exclusive recorded event with Jacqueline Wilson at her home in Sussex. There are many more events to be announced, so keep an eye on the Cambridge Literary Festival website for more information and updates.


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Looking for something to do this half term? LockHouse Escape Games has got you covered. Get the kids away from their screens and get their brains working in one of LockHouse’s legendary escape rooms, where you can work together to solve puzzles, find clues and complete cryptic missions. LockHouse’s games masters are on hand to offer a fully immersive storytelling experience and can give you hints and tips with the puzzles if you’re stuck. It’s the perfect family-friendly activity – and a great way to get the kids co-operating and spending some quality time together. Each escape room is entirely private, meaning you’ll only interact with people from your own household or social bubbles. There are also rigorous cleaning measures between groups to ensure your safety. This half- term, you can get £10 off for children under 13, using the code KID10. Find out more about the half-term discount and LOCKHOUSE ESCAPE GAMES

Anglian Potters – a group of ceramic enthusiasts from across East Anglia – has unveiled a new online pottery exhibition, showcasing the work of more than 40 local potters. The exhibition of studio ceramics features an array of styles, including bowls, vases, sculptures and wall plaques – and every piece is handmade and unique. There’s also a special collection based around the theme of hugs, with 100% of the proceeds from each of those pieces going to Nelson’s Journey, a charity that supports bereaved children in Norfolk. You’ve got until 9 October to get your hands on one before the exhibition closes. ANGLIAN POTTERS ONLINE EXHIBITION

book via the LockHouse website,


Kettle’s Yard, one of Cambridge’s best-loved contemporary art spaces, is once again open to the public. The venue is now welcoming visitors to its house and galleries from 11am to 5pm on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. The gallery’s live webcam installation and virtual tour offerings proved popular over lockdown, but as many art lovers would agree, there’s nothing quite like experiencing it all in person. One of Kettle’s Yard’s most popular exhibitions, the bold and provocative Linderism , is still running until 11 October, offering a disruptive exploration of famed artist Linder’s often controversial work – make sure to catch it if you haven’t already. Entry to the house and galleries is free, but tickets must be booked in advance.


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The folky outfit embark on a UK tour, following the release of their new album Off Off On this month.


JOHN GRANT 11 MAY, JUNCTION, £27.50 The genre-obliterating Denver-born singer is back to remind us why he’s consistently lauded with critical acclaim. The former Maccabees frontman performs his new solo material, which is due to be released as an album next year.

In a move that will make one of the world’s oldest university library collections freely available to access across the globe, Cambridge University Library is joining forces with Google Arts & Culture. The online platform utilises high-resolution technology to allow its visitors to zoom in on objects in great detail and each image is accompanied with its own ‘story’, which provides more information about the narratives behind some of the collection’s most fascinating artefacts. Among the new exhibits available online is the Treasures of Cambridge University Library collection, comprised of manuscripts books and other historically significant objects that have been accrued over the past six centuries. These include many unique and priceless artefacts, such as the library’s oldest written object (a Sumerian clay tablet, which is 4,200 years old), Sir Isaac Newton’s undergraduate notebooks from his time at Trinity College, and countless other intriguing items that have been carefully preserved over the years. Cambridge University librarian Dr Jessica Gardner said: “One of our driving principles is to freely and openly share our world-class collections with the world. With fewer people able to travel at the moment, our partnership with Google is a perfect example of bringing the library to millions of enquiring minds across the globe, joining some of the world’s biggest and best-loved cultural institutions that already on the platform.” The library’s partnership with Google Arts & Culture expands on its already impressive digitised collection – the Cambridge Digital Library – where you can find more than 50,000 of its objects freely available online. To explore the Treasures of Cambridge University Library collection, head to the Google Arts & Culture website. CAMBRIDGE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY JOINS GOOGLE ARTS & CULTURE

TRAVIS 12 MAY, CORN EX, £38 In their latest UK headline tour, the band unveil their new album 10 Songs , which includes their stellar single, The Only Thing .


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BY GRÁINNE MURPHY Longlisted for Cambridge’s prestigious Lucy Cavendish Prize, this extraordinary debut almost defies categorisation. On paper it’s the tale of a terrifying incident where a sinkhole swallows an early- morning bus in a rural Irish town. We meet reporters covering the news, the emergency services responding to the crisis, those saved from the bus, the passengers still trapped underground and the families who gather fearfully and hopefully at the pit’s edge. But as we learn more about the characters’ diverse backgrounds, their motivations, relationships and hopes and dreams, the book unfolds into an unforgettable story of truly jaw-dropping depth and scope. The rage-inducing pace of bureaucracy and the requirement to ‘follow protocol’ is set in stark opposition to the split- second life-and-death decisions made by the response team and those desperate for rescue. As people facing trauma tend to experience, these tragic events leave the protagonists questioning what truly matters in their lives, while the media spotlight shining brightly on those saved from the wreckage forces them to confront illuminated truths that might have been better left in the shadows. The book also plays with the characters’ perception of time, and will leave you wondering how so much can be covered in just a few days. The trapped bus riders, watchless, sleep to make time speed up: those above ground long for more hours with those they’ve lost. It’s a reminder that time, like pain, is relative – or as Nina, the journalist covering the

incident thinks to herself: “An article she read said the slower your heart rate, the faster your perception of time passing, so that while children and insects felt days stretch out for weeks, adults feel time speed up on them.” Murphy puts her cast of characters on trial, continually testing their individual capacity for both heroism and humanity. They are racked with physical and emotional pain, yet still hopeful for the future in bewildering yet beautiful sets of contrasts that all add up to make Where the Edge Is into one of the most memorable and affecting reads of the year.

“An unforgettable story of jaw- dropping depth and scope”

ABOVE Longlisted for the Lucy Cavendish Prize, Gráinne Murphy’s novel opens with a tragedy that uncovers characters’ hidden secrets


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who first identify the character’s otherness: “He should have known, Chika told himself as Kavita screamed in grief, Vivek clutched to her chest. He did know. How else could that scar have entered the world on flesh if it had not left in the first place? A thing cannot be in two places at once… this is how Vivek was born, after death and into grief.” This is a book about how something – someone – can be in two places, two states at once. In just a few sentences, the narrative can take us from soft, maternal delight at the young Vivek’s warm skin to brutal, bloodied grief at the wrapped corpse left on the family’s veranda. Some changes cannot be avoided: death is a part of life, but what happens to our true selves when we are forced to adjust, to alter our nature to make those around us more comfortable? Do we end up, like Vivek, feeling heavy our entire lives? “Like being dragged through concrete in circles, wet and setting concrete that dried with each rotation of my unwilling body. As a child, I was light… I slid through it and maybe it felt like a game, like I was just playing in mud… but then I got bigger and it started drying on me and eventually I turned into an uneven block, chipping and sparking on the hard ground, tearing off into painful chunks.” There is no escaping Vivek’s fate, but as with his grandmother’s passing, birth often follows on from death – if in an unexpected fashion. Tender and painfully raw in places, The Death of Vivek Oji is a book that will stay with you long after the sad conclusion that all of a sudden has been hiding in plain sight throughout.

BY AKWAEKE EMEZI Published at the end of the summer, this is the latest work from the Women’s Prize- longlisted writer Akawaeke Emezi, whose debut, Freshwater , was universally lauded. Like her previous novel, this new book deals with characters who seem to slip between worlds. As the title plainly states, Vivek Oji is dead, yet also seemingly not: the book slowly pieces together his life and the fallout from his death from the perspective of those closest to him, but Vivek also returns himself to add colour and life to these anecdotes, to rewrite the story from a different point of view. Born on the day of his grandmother’s death and bearing an identical birthmark to the family’s matriarch, Vivek is continually between states, raising questions of selfhood and identity from the very first moment we meet him. His absent father Chika and besotted-to-the-point-of- obsessed mother Kavita are the touchpoints

ABOVE A follow-up to The Stranger Diaries, Elly Griffiths’ new murder mystery is perfect for reading during those cold autumn evenings


BY ELLY GRIFFITHS The second novel featuring Elly’s detective DS Harbinder Kaur, this new tale follows on from The Stranger Diaries (which we featured back in Edition at the end of 2018 and is a treat of a teatime drama). The book features a clue-following collective of unlikely associates as they attempt to solve the apparent killing of an elderly resident of Shoreham who is revealed, post-mortem, to provide services as a ‘murder consultant’. The suspense-packed, pacy hunt leads the pack to a crime writers’ convention in Aberdeen, dips its toes in the murky world of Eastern European cryptocurrency, and deftly weaves in thoughtful asides on the modern plague of loneliness – caused in these characters’ cases by solitude, old age and not-being-from-around-here – which will resonate deeply with many readers following the long days of lockdown. Perfectly cosy winter reading that will leave you hoping for even more to come from Harbinder and her new set of friends.


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Pandemic-induced brain fog resulted in my excitedly looking forward to what I’d very literally interpreted to be not only Dolly’s first novel, but her first foray into horror writing, and it was only upon actually reading the book’s blurb that I realised it was a tale of ghosts in the 2020 sense, rather than the gothic fantasy I’d attempted to imagine. In the same manner as her smash hit Everything I Know About Love , in perhaps what’s becoming a hallmark of Alderton’s writing, the story’s scope unfolds to beyond the title, to cover not just literal ghosting – the experience of going sudden cold turkey on those you’d been in a relationship with – but about past connections that nostalgically haunt our thoughts, or those who are fading from view before our eyes. Ghosts is utterly glorious, and contains one the finest fictional first dates ever committed to paper, a splendid concept called the ‘Schadenfreude Shelf ’ that you’ll encourage your friends to adopt immediately, and a truly yelp-out-loud, perfectly rendered account of surviving the horrors of a hen weekend. Hugely, whole-heartedly recommended.


BY ZAINA ARAFAT You Exist Too Much strings together a set of beautifully drawn vignettes, like pearls lit from within, connecting the motivations of a young woman feeling stuck between expectation, reality, religious and societal convention, and choosing to follow her own path. As the book’s epigram from Kierkegaard neatly sums up: “Pleasure disappoints, possibility never.” Leaping from past to present, from the Middle East to the US, the chapters weave together the strands of the protagonist’s dreams and desires into an exquisitely written and provocative whole. After moving into an apartment with her first serious girlfriend and faced with the prospect of domesticity, the narrator seemingly subconsciously and deliberately implodes the relationship by seeking and having affairs with others, often unobtainable individuals. Admitting and facing up to the destructive tendencies rooted within her, she seeks help at The

ABOVE The Sunday Times columnist Dolly Alderton debuts her first novel, described as “funny, tender and painfully relatable”

Ledge, an unconventional therapy centre where she’s diagnosed with an addiction to love and forced to undergo numerous sessions with other addicts, all hunting for their own resolutions. How can you find somewhere to call home when you float between worlds? Can the love given by another individual ever fill the void of not truly loving yourself? Though the book is painful in places, it’s also perfectly paced, leading the reader slowly through realisations just like a brilliant therapist would and, as with Pandora’s box, there’s hope at the end. An impressive debut that’s well worth your time, and makes Zaina Arafat one to watch.

“You Exist Too Much strings together beautifully drawn vignettes, like pearls lit from within”


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PUMPKIN PICKING Pumpkin picking is a seasonal staple for any Halloween aficionado worth their salt, so you’ll be pleased to know that there’s a family-friendly pumpkin patch ready to welcome you this Halloween. Open throughout the half term - 23-31 October – Pumpkin Jim’s new patch in Ickleton has many varieties of pumpkin, from delicious squashes to impressively large carvers for those seeking a spooky doorstep showpiece. There’s also a covered children’s play area, where there will be a range of fun children’s activities on offer. Entry to the pumpkin patch is free – as is parking. More event information can be

found on the website.

action experience. Kentwell Hall’s annual Halloween event presents an evening of spine-tingling entertainment as you explore the haunted village of Scaresville in the dark, encountering all manner of scream-worthy scares along the way. This year’s event is slightly adapted to ensure everyone’s safety, but still promises to be an immersive experience. Scaresville is open from 9 October to 7 November. Tickets can be purchased from £26.45 and are available via the Scaresville website.

talking haunted house. The Halloween Special promises a day of spooky fun for all the family and is suitable for children of all ages. Dress to scare and we’ll see you there! Head to Audley End Miniature Railway’s website to book your tickets. GHOSTLY PUNTING TOURS Feeling brave? Rutherford’s ghost punting experience may be just the ticket if you love all things eerie. Those who dare to board will hear about some of Cambridge’s most sinister stories, while taking a trip through the haunted College Backs. This spooky adventure isn’t without its creature comforts, though, as you can snuggle up beneath toasty blankets and enjoy a glorious hot chocolate to keep warm. Keen to listen to scary stories from your cosy nest on the River Cam? The ghostly punting tours are available to book in advance by calling 01223 322200.


GRAND ARCADE This Halloween, the Grand Arcade’s atrium will play host to Dumbledore and Hogwarts’ famous sorting hat. Starting from 10am, visitors will be able to sit under the live hat to find out their Hogwarts house, whether it’s Gryffindor, Hufflepuff, Ravenclaw or Slytherin. You’ll also get to meet Dumbledore, the greatest headmaster that Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry has ever had! There will be five 30-minute sessions running throughout the day, from 10am, 11.15am, 12.30pm, 2pm and 3.15pm – arrive on time so as not to miss out!


AT AUDLEY END From 24 October to 1 November, you can catch the Halloween Special at Audley End Miniature Railway. This immersive spook- tacular will take you deep into the ancient woodland, where you will meet witches and wizards and their playful pumpkin friends, as well as discover all the mystical secrets of the woods from Herbert the

SCARESVILLE After winning a slew of awards in 2018 and 2019, Scaresville is back this year to bring you yet another thrilling live-


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f there’s one thing lockdown gave us, it was time. Those of us used to rushing from pillar to post suddenly had a chance to pause, reconnect and take our time with life’s simple pleasures – and for many, chief among them was food. Planning, cooking and eating meals took centre stage in lockdown life, and we also developed a new appreciation of what growers, butchers, bakers, deli owners, delivery drivers and shop staff do to put great food on our plates. All of which makes For the Love of the Land , a new cookbook from Meze Publishing, a timely release. It’s compiled by Jenny Jefferies and features farms from across the UK, specialising in everything from lamb to lavender; cheese to chillies. Among their number are local farms including Burwash Manor Farm in Barton, South Farm near Royston, Caldecote Farm in Abbotsley and La Hogue Farm in Chippenham, featured alongside stars of the food world such as Michelin-starred chef Tommy Banks. As well as stories from the farms and contemplations on the future of our country’s agriculture, the book features a mouth-watering selection

of recipes that showcase the best of British produce, from blackbrook beef bolognese from a traditional lowland farm in Leicestershire to reestit mutton soup by two sisters who run their family farm on Shetland. “After marrying my husband, John, I discovered the wonderful, challenging and sometimes isolating world of farming,” comments Jenny Jefferies, who compiled the book. “I never before quite appreciated where our food came from, so it’s been a real privilege to speak with the farmers within this book; they are truly the backbone of our country. They nurture and provide for us; putting food on our table for us to enjoy, so let’s give thanks and praise for all the hard work they do. “This book has become a labour of love and I hope this collection of stories and of the farmers’ favourite recipes is simply enjoyed for its food, provenance and for the sharing of good and positive stories. This is a celebration of British farming – enjoy!” Read on for delicious recipes from local farms featured in For the Love of the Land.

For the Love of the Land is published by Meze Publishing, priced at £22 with a proportion of royalties going to The National Literacy Trust. Pick up your copy from bookshops, Amazon or


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PREP TIME: 20 MINUTES COOKING TIME: 20 MINUTES MEATBALLS IN TOMATO SAUCE INGREDIENTS • 500g sausage meat (we obviously prefer our own Burwash-reared meat!) • 1 onion • Knob of butter • 2 cloves of garlic BURWASH MANOR FARM’S

• 500-700g passata (1 jar) • Salt and pepper, to taste • Dash of Tabasco, if that’s your thing

STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE 1. Preheat the oven to 180˚C and grease a deep-sided baking tray. Squeeze the sausage meat into a large mixing bowl. Using your hands, shape the mixture into around 20 small balls, each about the size of a gobstopper. Place these a few centimetres apart on the prepared tray and bake in the preheated oven for ten minutes. 2. Meanwhile, slice the onion into half- centimetre strips and fry gently in the butter. Finely chop the garlic and add to the onion when it has softened. Fry until soft and on the verge of caramelising. Pour the passata over and reduce to a simmer. Add seasonings to taste. 3. After the ten-minute baking time, shake the meatballs on the tray and pour the sauce over the top, mixing well. Add 50ml of water and put the tray back in the oven for ten to 15 minutes, or until the meatballs are fully cooked through. 4. Find your crusty bread and grated cheddar cheese, or prepare your pasta and parmesan, or make some quinoa and salad… Whatever you fancy to accompany them!

This is the recipe that we use in The Larder for our meatball sub sandwiches, but there are any number of variations on the theme; you could use 100% beef or any ratio of pork to beef, and they’ll team with any carbs (couscous, quinoa, rice, pasta, noodles, potatoes) or none (finely chopped cauliflower, for example) with gravy, apple sauce, onion marmalade, redcurrant or cranberry jelly, topped with fennel seeds, chilli flakes or oregano. We’re always keen for customers to tell us what works for them!


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During shooting season, this dish is a firm favourite at the shoot lunches, especially as we always use our own birds. It’s equally delicious with partridge, turkey or chicken



STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE 1. Make the stock the day before. Roughly chop the celery, carrot and onion. Arrange the pheasant breasts snugly in a casserole dish with the bay leaf and parsley stalks on top. Season with salt and pepper, then cover the meat and veg with cold water. Bring to the boil and then simmer for one and a half to two hours until the pheasant breasts are very tender. Leave to cool completely in the liquid, then measure out 500ml of the stock to use in the dish. 2. When the pheasant breasts are cool, cut each of them into four or five pieces and lay them out in an ovenproof dish. Cut the asparagus into thirds and place on top of the pheasant breasts. 3. In a separate pan, melt the butter and then stir in the flour to make a paste. Gradually add the stock, milk and chicken soup. Simmer until the sauce has thickened. Remove the pan from the heat and add the crème fraiche, mustard and parsley.

INGREDIENTS • 2 sticks of celery • 1 carrot • 1 onion • 8 pheasant breasts • 1 bay leaf • A few parsley stalks • 1 can of asparagus • 50g butter • 75g plain flour

4. Season to taste, then pour over the pheasant breasts and asparagus. Mix everything together.

• 500ml stock • 100ml milk • 295ml tin of condensed chicken soup • 200ml crème fraiche • 1 tbsp wholegrain mustard • 2 tbsp chopped parsley FOR THE TOPPING • 25g butter • 5 or 6 slices of bread

FOR THE TOPPING Whizz the bread in a food processor. Melt the butter in a pan and add the breadcrumbs. Mix until well combined. Pour the topping over the pheasant and asparagus mixture. Bake in a preheated oven at 180°C for 30 minutes. Serve with vegetables and new or baked potatoes.


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INGREDIENTS • 1-1.5kg lamb shoulder, bone in • Splash of olive oil • 25g butter • 4 large onions, peeled and quartered • 1 bulb of garlic, cloves separated and peeled • 240ml white wine • 240ml chicken or beef stock • 4 sprigs of fresh rosemary • 3 bay leaves • 1 lemon, zested • 1 tbsp dijon or wholegrain mustard • 2 anchovies • 1 tbsp cumin seeds • Salt and black pepper • 3 tsp cornflour, mixed with 60ml water

STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE 1. Take the lamb out of the fridge 1 or 2

hours before cooking so it comes to room temperature. Preheat your oven to 130°c and heat a little oil in a large frying pan over a high heat. Add the lamb shoulder, skin side down, and cook until browned. Turn over and brown the other side then set aside on a plate. Drain the excess fat from the pan. 2. Reduce the heat to medium-high, add the butter to the same pan and cook the onions for a few minutes until golden. Add the garlic cloves and cook for another few minutes. Add the wine, turn up the heat and let it bubble rapidly for a minute while you scrape up any caramelised juices stuck to the bottom. Add the stock, rosemary, bay leaves and lemon zest. Stir then carefully pour everything into your largest roasting dish. 3. Place the lamb shoulder into the dish, skin-side up. Spread the mustard and anchovies over the

on the surface without pressing down. Wait a few minutes for them to soak through, then discard. Pour the remaining pan juices through a sieve into a clean saucepan. Add the cornflour mixture and boil until the liquid has reduced to a nice pouring sauce while the lamb rests. Taste and season as required. 7. To serve, pull the lamb into nice big chunks. Serve on mashed potatoes with seasonal vegetables, pour your gravy over the top and scatter with a few fresh herbs for garnish. Leftover lamb can be used to make a great salad or sandwich for lunch the next day.

top and drizzle with olive oil. Sprinkle with the cumin seeds and season with salt and pepper. 4. Cover the dish tightly with tin foil and bake in the preheated oven for five hours or until the meat is falling off the bone. Baste the lamb a couple of times while it’s cooking. Remove the tin foil, turn up the oven to 200°C and cook for another ten to 15 minutes before serving. 5. Transfer the lamb to a warmed plate or platter – it will be falling apart and tender – then cover with the foil. Let it rest for ten to 15 minutes. 6. To remove the layer of oil on top of the pan juices, gently lay six or seven paper towels

Lamb has always been one of my favourite meats and this recipe perfectly displays its versatility. The melt-in-the-mouth shoulder is rich and warming and reminds me a little of crispy peking duck from your Chinese… In fact, I simply reheat any leftovers on the bone and shred the meat off into pancakes or wraps with spring onion, cucumber and sweet chilli or hoisin sauce!


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In the summer months, our many varieties of tomato plants burst with colourful fruit. Some of the most interesting tomatoes we grow are indigo beauty, golden sunrise, red and green zebra and giagantomo. Using a mix of varieties and sizes will enhance the visual impact and deliciousness of this salad


INGREDIENTS • 100ml aged Aceto Balsamico de Modena vinegar (or any other good-quality balsamic vinegar) • 2g agar-agar (a vegetarian gelatine alternative) • 1 or 2 of each tomato variety you have (use as many colours, sizes and textures as available) • 20g smoked Maldon sea salt • 20 basil leaves • 50ml aged Aceto Balsamico De Modena glaze • 250g burrata (or buffalo mozzarella) • 5g basil cress (or very young basil) • 5g shiso cress (optional) • 100ml good quality extra-virgin olive oil • 20ml basil oil STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE 1. For the balsamic jelly cubes, bring the balsamic vinegar to the boil, then stir in the agar- agar using a whisk. Make sure it has all been dissolved. Line a small tray with cling film and pour the balsamic mix into the tray. Leave the jelly to set in the fridge for at least one hour. This can be done a day in advance. Once set,

cling film and leave to sit on the side for up to 15 minutes. The salt will season the tomatoes and release their wonderful flavour. 3. To assemble, place four plates in front of you. Dip a pastry brush into the balsamic glaze and spread some in the centre of each plate. Divide the seasoned tomatoes between the plates, making sure that every serving has a variety of shapes and sizes. Tear the burrata or mozzarella into 12 pieces and divide them between the four plates. Add five or six cubes of balsamic jelly to each plate, but if you love balsamic then feel free to add more! Sprinkle the basil cress and shiso over the top, then finish the salad with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and basil oil.

tip the contents of the tray on to a chopping board and dice the jelly into 1cm cubes. 2. To prepare the tomatoes, cut each tomato into different shapes, letting their shape guide you. Don’t go for the same size pieces. Some tomatoes naturally lend themselves to being cut into large chunks, others could be sliced and some, for example baby plum tomatoes, could be left whole or simply halved. The aim is to have a variety of shapes, sizes, colours and textures. Once you are happy with the mixture of tomatoes, season them with the smoked Maldon sea salt. Tear the basil leaves into pieces using your fingers and add them to the tomatoes. Toss them in the bowl to mix everything together, then cover the bowl with

The result will be four stunning plates of full of colour and flavour! Our recipe is for a starter, but to make this salad into a main course, follow the steps above, but split everything between two large plates instead to serve.


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Decadent dessert cafe Creams is delighting diners with its pledge to continue supporting the Eat Out to Help Out scheme, extending its offers until the end of November. You’ll be able to get 25% off your bill when you dine in on Mondays, Tuesdays and Wednesdays, meaning you can indulge in all of your favourite Creams treats, including its mouth-watering selection of delicious ice creams and crepes, as well as waffles and cookie dough. The cafe also serves up seven ridiculously tempting varieties of cheesecake, made in collaboration with American favourite The Cheesecake Factory – the white chocolate raspberry is our personal favourite. Check out the Creams website to see the full selection.


Co-founder of luxury local gin brand Cambridge Distillery, William Lowe, has recently become the first master distiller in the world to become a master of wine. The course requires hopefuls to complete a famously difficult series of examinations, and candidates must accurately assess 36 different wines in the space of three days, finishing with a 10,000-word research paper – which William seized as an opportunity to demonstrate that teaching someone to assess qualities in wines also improves their ability to discern quality in spirits, too. “I have always been quietly obsessed with quality in drinks: what makes one wine or spirit greater than another from an objective standpoint,” says William. “My intention with studying the MWwas simply to bring a new perspective to my approach in the distillery. “My aim is to use the insight I’ve gained through my MW studies to help others understand how to seek out and identify true quality in both wines and spirits.” William’s qualification has come at what is an especially innovative time for the business; Cambridge Distillery is releasing something brand new this month, as well as launching in markets in India, Singapore and Switzerland. Keep an eye on the Cambridge Distillery website and social media channels to be the first to hear.


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Fancy sinking your teeth into lip-smacking, Nashville- style fried chicken? Check out the Cambridge food scene’s newest addition: Dot’s Hot Chicken, which launched last month to much excitement on social media. This new brand has an excellent pedigree, having come from the same team as Steak & Honour, and offers a small but perfectly formed menu that features just two mains: Dot’s twin set (drum and thigh), and a ten-piece bucket; a feast of super crunchy, super spicy and super delicious fried chicken. Sides include salty skinny fries, deli slaw, pickle pots and Grain Culture milk loaf, with ordering through local delivery website Foodstuff or collection from Steak & Honour. After its roaring success during lockdown, S&H’s at-home burger kits are returning, this time with delivery via Click It Local, plus the team is launching a new range of merch for autumn, giving the burger fans of Cambridge plenty of ways to spend their money. WINNER, WINNER, CHICKEN DINNER!


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CAMBRIDGE’S FIRST WINERY Having just started production in September, Cambridge’s first-ever winery is officially up and running. Gutter & Stars Wines, housed in the Grade II listed Chesterton Mill, is an urban winery spearheaded by winemaker and wine journalist Chris Wilson. “I’ve wanted to start my own winemaking business for some time,” says Chris, “but I never thought that it would be in the basement of a historic windmill in Cambridge.” Having made wine in California, Germany and here in the UK, Chris is producing several different styles of wine at Gutter & Stars, using locally grown fruit fromMissing Gate Vineyard in Essex’s Crouch Valley, near Chelmsford. “Working in the wine trade as a journalist for a number of years, I have visited countless wineries around the world, getting to know winemakers and a variety of winemaking techniques along the way,” Chris adds. “I hope to tap into this experience here at Gutter & Stars, but I also want to make my own mark and produce wines with a nod to the very unique surroundings in which they are being made.”


Following the hugely successful launch of its pick-and-mix boxes over lockdown, the Cambridge Fruit Company is now aiming to take the fuss out of your weekly food shop with its new subscription service. Working with local suppliers, the new service enables customers to select a ready-made fruit and veg box, then add extras like bread, meat, milk and cakes. You can pick your delivery day and fill your box with the best produce the region has to offer: chelsea buns from Fitzbillies, Portuguese custard tarts from Norfolk Street Bakery, poultry and meat from Andrews of Cambridge and tray bakes from Uppercrusts Caterers. Best of all, you’re not tied to a contract and can cancel at any time. The company has also developed a box with The Red Hen Project, a local charity that supports vulnerable families in Cambridge. You can get £5 off your first two deliveries from the Cambridge Fruit Company when you subscribe.


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