FOOD & DR INK
RESTAURANT REVI EW Pra n a FOR THOSE KEEN TO SAMPLE THE FINER ASPECTS OF INDIAN CUISINE, A WARM AMBIENCE AND FIRST-RATE HOSPITALITY, HEAD TO PRANA
othing beats a slap-up curry feast, especially during colder months – and fortunately for us, there are great options in
all directions here in Cambridge. Prana, which sits on the corner of Mill Road and Gwydir Street, is an enduringly popular choice, having built up a great reputation in the city since opening in late 2012. But if glowing recommendations from the curry-lovers of Cambridge aren’t enough to convince you of its quality, the slew of industry awards – which includes Best Restaurant at the 2017 English Curry Awards – certainly should be. Prana also enjoyed a celebrity endorsement recently from Chris Evans, whose praise of the restaurant on his BBC Radio 2 show prompted a surge in orders. Owner Kobir Ahmed credits the restaurant’s success to its hard-working team, dedication to delivering exceptional service and the fact that it offers diners something different, steering away from stereotypical dishes like tikka masala. Instead, Prana serves up authentic, lesser-seen recipes, created with the finest ingredients. The restaurant sets itself apart from traditional curry houses visually too, with glossy, light-filled interiors and crisp, white tablecloths that lend a modern feel. The food is the real ace up Prana’s sleeve though, with the menu opening up a world of exotic-sounding possibilities.
On the recommendation of Kobir, we begin with a lavish spread of starters that includes Rizwan’s: a smoky platter of perfectly cooked meats, and some succulent, tamarind-drenched king prawns. We also try the truly delicious samosa chaat, a symphony of salty, sweet and spicy flavours, with crushed chickpea and potato, puffed rice, pomegranate seeds and crunchy veggie samosas, drizzled in a tangy sauce. One bite and it’s easy to see why chaat is one of India’s favourite street food dishes (it’s also one of Prana’s many vegan options). For mains, we choose one of the restaurant’s signature recipes, the Sikandari lamb shank. This showstopping dish is roasted for 48 hours and marinated in a chickpea sauce to achieve perfect, meltingly tender texture and lip-smacking flavour. Our other main is a creamy and coconutty green curry – with juicy chicken breast, broccoli and aubergine – and we also enjoy some excellent sides including crispy, sesame seed-studded fried courgettes and a pillowy naan, dripping in garlic butter (for which the trip to Prana is worth alone). It’s easy to fill up as the portions are generous, but save some space
for pudding if you can – the ‘firni’ rice pudding is a creamy, sweetly spiced hug in a bowl, while the poached pears, served with a shard of cinnamon, drenched in sugary syrup and bursting with aromatic flavours, is a revelation. The past few months have taken a heavy toll on businesses in the hospitality sector and, despite good takeaway trade, Prana was not unscathed. The restaurant remained open throughout, donating around 500 meals to key workers and people in need, and the team has put a lot of thought into how the restaurant can reopen safely, without undermining the customer experience. The solution has been to reduce capacity, temperature- check each customer on entry and place hand sanitiser on tables. They’ve done a great job: it feels safe and welcoming and the team is working hard to make the experience as pleasant as possible. On the night we visit, it seems a shame not more diners are here to enjoy the excellent hospitality on offer. In terms of what’s next for Prana, Kobir is bursting with ideas, from thali nights to tiffin-style deliveries, so the future looks bright for this brilliant little restaurant – watch this space!
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