Technique merge automatically, whereas with focus bracketing, the images have to be merged in software. In both cases, the subject and the camera need to be as static as possible for good results, but handheld in-camera focus stacking is possible with practice. Macro lenses can ‘focus hunt’ and rack back and forth when shooting close. A focus limiter helps, but don’t be surprised that you have to intervene and manually fine-tune focus, perhaps with the help of peaking, or even the focus magnifier check. This needs practice if you are shooting handheld – and it’s easier when you’re using a camera support, although a monopod or tripod is not always feasible. For distant subjects, a teleconverter gives your lens more pulling power. A 1.4x teleconverter on a 70-200mm f/2.8 lens makes it an effective 98- 280mm f/4, or a 140-400mm f/5.6 with a 2x converter. The increase in focal length comes with the minor penalty of light loss, hence the maximum aperture is slower than the lens on its own. The slower maximum aperture is not too much of an issue with modern digital cameras, where using high
ISO speeds still delivers good image quality, so you can keep shutter speeds fast to record sharply. Get into nature work and you may decide to invest in a telezoom with a longer range. Although bulkier, this option probably gives better image quality compared with a telezoom fitted with a teleconverter, and a faster maximum aperture. Long zooms from independent brands Tamron, Tokina and Sigma are worth a serious look, together with those from the big camera brands. Camera supports make life easier, but what works best depends on the situation and how you prefer to work. Such accessories might not even be practical and slow up the shooting process too much, or even disturb the subject. From your car or a hide, a beanbag or mini tripod can work perfectly well. If you are trying to capture flying birds and struggling handheld, a tripod fitted with a gimbal head is worth a thought. Nature is a massive subject, so we only have space to scratch the surface. Hopefully, we have given you inspiration – and this time of year is perfect for sampling what’s on offer.
CONTACT For more information about British nature, locations and what to photograph, here are some websites to check out. › British Dragonfly Society
› National Trust nationaltrust.org.uk › Nature Net naturenet.net › RSPB rspb.org.uk
› The Big Cat Sanctuary thebigcatsanctuary.org › TheWildlife Trusts wildlifetrusts.org › Wildfowl &Wetlands Trust wwt.org.uk
british-dragonflies.org.uk › BritishWildlife Centre britishwildlifecentre.co.uk › Butterfly Conservation butterfly-conservation.org
RED-EYE Sarah Horrocks landed this red-eyed tree frog on a training session with Wild Arena. Shot on a Sony A7 II, 90mm macro lens 1/50sec at f/11 and ISO 640
ON THEWING Practice, practice, practice – that’s how to get sharp shots of flying birds, plus a capable AF system, good coordination and fast shutter speeds. Nikon D500 with Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8 lens at 95mm, exposed at 1/2000sec at f/2.8
Photography News | Issue 91
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