Technique
OH DEER! The annual rut that takes place in autumn is a popular time for deer pictures, but pictures can be taken all year round. Shot on Big Moor, Derbyshire, Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark III, with Olympus 300mm f/4 lens and 2x teleconverter sunlight, though, does mean high contrast – and the best days are when the sun is diffused by thin, high cloud and there’s little wind, because even a gentle breeze can seem like a hurricane when you’re close up. While we have highlighted some options for you to consider, we haven’t touched on gear yet, which is a huge subject. You probably own the basic kit – camera and telephoto lens – that you need to get going. For smaller subjects, a telephoto lens that focuses close would suit, and you can enhance this with close-up lenses or extension tubes, both allowing you to focus more closely than normal. If you have the budget, investing in a macro lens is the next step. They have a medium telephoto focal length, and most give 1:1 life-size magnification. With macro, you have to be careful with focusing, because the amount of depth-of-field lessens as you get closer. Fill the frame with a butterfly at f/11 or f/16 and you get a depth-of-field of a few millimetres. In these situations, positioning the camera so its back is parallel to the subject helps you get head and wings sharp. More and more cameras are coming out with focus stacking or focus bracketing features. These can help you achieve greater depth-of-field in shots, and although the end result is the same, the two features work differently. Focus stacking is done in-camera – and the individual images
events, tours and organised walks – and shooting opportunities suiting less-experienced photographers, plus anyone who prefers the company of like-minded people. The last subject area to discuss is the hugely popular one of insects. This time of year, gardens, meadows and hedgerows are buzzing with life – from the tiniest weevils and spiders, to butterflies and dragonflies. Your garden is a good starting point, while parks, meadows and nature reserves offer excellent chances for pictures, but for insects – just like birds and mammals – you need patience, fieldcraft and good technique. You’re dealing with small subjects that are often fast-moving and easily disturbed, so it’s not as easy as you might think. Early in the day is the time favoured by experts, when their prey is less lively. As temperatures rise and the sun warms the air, insects get more active, which makes photographing themmore challenging. Sunny, warm days are best for insect life, especially if you want to shoot butterflies and dragonflies, simply because you don’t see as many when it’s cool and cloudy. Strong “You’re dealing with small subjects that are fast-moving
and easily disturbed”
TALL AND HANDSOME If native wildlife doesn’t appeal, then get along to a zoo or wildlife park to indulge your camera skills. These giraffes were taken at Yorkshire Wildlife Park, using an Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark III with an Olympus 40-150mm f/2.8 lens, exposure was 1/500sec at f/5 and ISO 200
Issue 91 | Photography News 15
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