SAVOUR & SIP
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INN FUSION Serving up a story Barry Vera, chef patron at Grantchester’s newest culinary destination, talks travel tales, transportive food and the transformation of Vera The Green Man
WORDS BY PHOEBE HARPER
T aking over a crumbling country pub in a sleepy Cambridgeshire village wasn’t the obvious next step in the career of Barry Vera, whose trajectory up to that point reads like a roll call of the finest five-star hospitality establishments around. From heading up Michelin star kitchens for Marco Pierre White to being voted as ‘an icon of Australian food’ by Vogue Entertaining & Travel – and presenting three television series for the Discovery Channel – Barry found himself joining forces with Chris Webb and Joe Scarborough in 2022. The three business partners came up with a bold vision to breathe new life into a 400-year-old pub. The scene that met Barry when he eventually visited the premises in Grantchester was a rude wake-up call, after it had sat empty for three years. “It was like stepping into a movie set of the apocalypse,” he recalls. Despite the long and arduous road to restoration, navigating flooded cellars, post-Covid-19 staffing shortages and a host of other challenges, the charm of the building and its undeniable promise as a country pub perched on the edge of the village green was not lost on Barry. Vera The Green Man was officially reopened back in late January 2023 – and has quickly established itself as a Cambridgeshire culinary destination, not least thanks to its sellout Sunday roasts.
inspired a dish we serve now, and I would want anyone who was eating it to feel transported to the Mediterranean.” DONE DIFFERENTLY The abundance of pubs in Grantchester is not lost on Barry, with three other venues just a stone’s throw away. Rather than trying to compete, he lets the pub and its unique offerings, like Sunday acoustic live music sessions, speak for themselves. The culinary combo of storytelling and an ingredient-led approach ensures The Green Man stands apart. This is not somewhere you are likely to find a burger on the menu. Instead, try the shooter sandwich – a resurrected Edwardian dish consisting of steak, mushrooms and mustard served in a hollowed-out hunk of bread, traditionally served with a warming hip flask of bloody mary for a shooting party. Similarly, this festive season, look elsewhere for a traditional turkey dinner. Instead, the team has spent weeks perfecting a ‘turkey dog’ served with tantalising cranberry mustard. Despite the mouth-watering menus, for Barry, the philosophy of a successful chef all comes down to the experience of those enjoying your food. “I always say to any chef: if you’re in it for the awards, you’re in it for the wrong reasons. If you’re making memories by creating a real guest experience, then your business success will follow,” he asserts. “I don’t care if you’re a critic or a local from the down the road, I want them all to have that experience.”
Regardless, the transformation continues – in addition to the intimate 30-cover seating area inside and private dining snug, the pub’s garden has been revamped to include a stylish terrace complete with bar, grill and cabanas perfect for events. A PURSUIT OF PASSION Born and raised in Sheffield from a family of Italian heritage, spending time in pubs and working men’s clubs, Barry credits this upbringing with fostering a natural appreciation for good food, drink and the convivial spaces in which to enjoy them. In the kitchen today, he is joined by his head chef Sebastian, ‘an absolute diamond’ who shares both his infectious passion and professionalism. Through careful planning, the pub’s menu changes every two to three weeks, prioritising local suppliers as well as seasonal produce while also paying homage to Barry’s international outlook. Reflecting his decision to embark on a career in food as a gateway to the world, every dish on the menu is an evocation of place and time – like the ‘scraps’ that are fondly reminiscent of greasy-fingered childhood visits to the local chippy. “Above all, it’s about sharing stories, because food evokes memories. “The ingredients must speak for themselves,” he insists, reflecting on his travels through Greece while filming a food documentary. “Along the coast, you would find these octopus tentacles that were covered in lemon juice or vinegar and left to dry in the sun before they were grilled. The taste was so incredible that it
CRUISING CUISINE Barry drew inspiration from his travels to discover new flavours to bring home
CAMBSEDITION.CO.UK JANUARY 2024 43
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