FOOD EDITION
Root vegetables are the perfect autumn ingredient: hearty, easy to cook and perfect in nourishing soups and stews. This month, Elisha Young (aka @elisha.eats on Instagram) makes the case for beetroot Beet It
I ’d never given beetroot much thought before. I knew of its existence and could tell you what it looked like. I wasn’t against it, I just hadn’t pondered it in any meaningful capacity. That all changed once I experienced the Sunday lunch vegetable platter from Provenance Kitchen. Charred, glossy- skinned carrots, rubbly roast potatoes with a deep-brown crust and enormous, deep- purple globes of roasted beetroot – sweet, earthy and mild with a pleasantly yielding texture. It was also seasoned to perfection and absolutely delicious. Root awakening Once I’d seen the error of my beetroot- ignoring ways, I realised there are plenty of ways to enjoy this richly hued root vegetable. When my grandma gave me some she had grown in her garden, I admired their unusual golden colour. Then, I promptly seasoned them with sea salt, black pepper and olive oil, wrapped in tin foil and baked them in the oven until they were perfectly soft, with no need for other adornments. I even started adding beetroot to my egg salads, because those precooked packets you can find at the supermarket are extremely handy for adding colour and variety to any dish. In the case of egg salad, beetroot provides a cheerful pink hue and some textural variety. Okay, it sounds odd, but don’t hate it ’til you’ve made it. If you remain unconvinced, you better get down to Provenance Kitchen to have your mind changed. The Sunday roasts are legendary for a reason. Alternatively, dip your toe into the waters with something easy-going and convenient like a packet of tasty beetroot crisps – or simply add cheese (that tends to solve most problems). Beetroot really lends itself to a pairing with a salty cheese like halloumi or feta. You can find a beetroot and goat’s cheese salad with pesto and rocket at The Punter pub in Cambridge. For a more fancy feel, the free-from afternoon tea menu at Parker’s Tavern features a beetroot and hummus sandwich (plus a roasted carrot vegan taco and vegan egg mayo sandwich). There’s also the goat’s cheese and beetroot flammekuche from Chez Amélie near the station, which includes caramelised onion, roasted pine nuts and honey – and sounds like the perfect dish for a beetroot beginner. Seeing red So this year – when my mum presented me with several large beetroot she’d just pulled out of our garden – I knew what I had to do. I carefully peeled the vegetables, grated them (use gloves here, unless you want to
look bloody-handed for several days after), and added them to a pearl barley risotto. The risotto was flavoured with onion, white wine and basil; I added chicken stock one ladleful at a time until it absorbed into the grain. Everything was slowly cooked down with the shredded beetroot until it was thick and luscious. Then, I stirred through some peas for a pop of green and topped the dish with cubes of feta. An easy and healthy autumnal dish that will keep you feeling warm and nourished once you’ve eaten it. Hopefully, that beautiful pink colour is enough to lift your spirits, even on a dull and cloudy day.
Elisha is a columnist and avid home baker. You can expect to find her eating food, photographing food or writing about food – particularly in and around Cambridge and Ely. ABOUT ELISHA
FEEL THE BEET Beetroot is rich in betalains, an antioxidant with anti-inflammatory properties
CAMBSEDITION.CO.UK OCTOBER 2024 39
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