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people want, and build that relationship. There’s a number of people who, though they might not need bread or pastry that week, they come because they want to support you.” Luca’s schedule and the fact that all his bakes are started two days in advance means he doesn’t currently get a full day off in the week. He’s been known to leave social events early to refresh the leaven and, after his children go to bed, will regularly head back to the unit to check on the loaves’ progress. “It’s constant,” he admits. “But I enjoy that, I really do – it’s a living thing, it’s part of what I do. And with bread, there is a degree of flexibility: I can manage my own time. It’s all about temperature: I just have to start stuff sooner and let it prove longer, colder…” Like many chefs, he’s not a fan of shortcuts. “I mean – why? There are so many other people taking shortcuts with bread, because they want to produce more, spend less time at work and make it more convenient so they can achieve a decent lifestyle – and I think that’s what ruins it,” he says. “It annoys me. These ‘artisans’. What’s the point? Why are you sending out not need bread or pastry that week, they come because they want to support you" You have to build that relationship. There’s a number of people who, though they might
bring me financially? I’m not going to live on that order – it’d just be a cool thing to do,” Luca smiles. “We all value what we’re doing. Let’s do it together.” But if the last year has taught him anything, it’s that change is inevitable. So what developments would the baker like to see happen next? “I just want a tight operation, producing the best we can possibly produce. We’ve got a great shop; I’m not planning on changing that. Maybe it would be cool to do something similar in Cambridge: one room, stuff gets baked and delivered within half an hour; open two days a week only – when it’s there, it’s there, and you need to queue up to get it,” he says. “The dream for the Ely shop is to have enough people that every Saturday – and I’m happy to do the bake, to wake up at 2am – I’ll drop the bread off, and then, I’ve got this bench outside the shop, to sit, have a coffee and a chat for a couple of hours, then start my weekend,” he grins at the thought. “Even as a baker or a business person, I never thought I could do this. It’s great. The amount of friendships that have come about through the business, just because of... bread.” Luca bakes twice a week from 9am on Saturday and Wednesday, 30a St Mary’s Street, Ely CB7 4ES, @grainculturehq
bread you baked yesterday afternoon? It’s like restaurants: if you don’t want to work evenings or work weekends – do something else! This is what it takes.” For now, Luca is happy with where he is. He’s stepping back from selling bread on the market to focus on sales through the shop, and adding a midweek bake to the schedule will see even more queues of keen bread- heads lining up to purchase pastries. Collaborative projects are always high on his wish list, and he’s regularly found sliding into the DMs of chefs to suggest they work together. “What is it going to
IMAGES Luca recently
added a midweek bake to his shop, so his bread is now available to buy twice a week from Ely
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ISSUE 04
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