SAVOUR & SIP
Farm to Table MIRIAM BALANESCU SPEAKS TO JENNY JEFFERIES ABOUT THE FOLLOW-UP TO HER ACCLAIMED COOKBOOK, FOR THE LOVE OF THE LAND LOCAL HERO
10% of Jenny’s net profits will be donated to the Farm Safety Foundation, aka Yellow Wellies
ver the past century, it became less common to worry about where food comes from – the prevalence of supermarkets and plastic packaging created a barrier between us and the soil. As environmental concerns have come to the fore, however, Jenny Jefferies’ For the Love of the Land – winner of best cookbook at the Woman & Home Book Awards 2021 – is a timely call to recognise the part British farmers play in our lives. The series emerged after Jenny, from South Cambridgeshire, married a farmer, John. “The books stemmed from my shameful ignorance about food provenance, and I wanted to share my husband’s story,” she reveals. Voyaging across the island, Jenny showcases 40 farmers’ stories and their recipes, digging into British agriculture and its importance. This time around, she features Riverford, Yeo Valley, Belvoir and L’Enclume. “ For the Love of the Land II was a natural progression,” says Jenny. “There are so many farmers in the UK, it’s wonderful to have another chance to share recipes and stories, focusing on pioneering agricultural activities and processes like regenerative agriculture, conservation, sustainability and agroforestry. “The message is asserts. When writing her first book, a list of the produce came first and the farmers second, to showcase the range across the regions. But this time around, her research process was slightly smoother. “Word got out about the first book, and farmers started asking me to be in it, which is really flattering. One door opens another,” she beams. The writer forages for subjects on the internet and social media: a tool that transformed the boundary between consumers and those who create our food. “Social media has definitely aided farms in reaching out to the public, to highlight that producer-consumer story,” to buy local, seasonal, sustainable and – above all – British,” Jenny
LAY OF THE LAND The second book in the series travels to 40 of our best farms
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Jenny says. “There’s a fantastic initiative by Village Farm’s Tom Martin, who initiated ‘farmer time’, where schools and farmers link up via Zoom from all over the world.” Growing alongside changes in agriculture, Jenny’s latest book places further emphasis on sustainable production and flexitarian diets. “There’s an awful lot of explorative farmers out there, testing different methods,” Jenny explains. “The constraints are from politicians, and not enough government funding, support from the general public or awareness. It’s about bridging the gap between town and country, and food and
I hope readers get a picture of British agriculture
technology.” While farmers’ food can be meat-heavy, Jenny shares a multitude of vegetarian recipes, with ingredient substitutions in mind for vegans. Although farming is a pioneering industry,
gardens and urban growing that has concurrently permeated her work.
Preservation of the old and celebration of the new are at the book’s core, including recipes from chocolate and beetroot cake, to Scottish cranachan. “I hope readers get a picture of British agriculture, and the people who work so hard, with so much passion, to produce food for our tables – even just a simple bowl of cereal.” For the Love of the Land II is a tasty continuation of Jenny’s acclaimed series, with insight into the industry and a wealth of irresistible recipes to boot. For the Love of the Land II is £22 and available from all good book shops, Meze Publishing and jennyjefferies.co.uk
traditions are deep-rooted. “There are farms that have been in the same family for generations, and recipes handed down from great-great-grandmothers and great-great-grandfathers. It’s lovely to have the opportunity to share some of those recipes,” says Jenny. For the Love of the Land II honours the uniqueness of each British location’s customs, taking the reader on a journey of discovery. “It really tries to highlight that you can grow your own as well,” she continues, noting the renewed focus on community
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