SAVOUR & SIP
Fit for a King TABLE TALK Star chef Michel Roux tells Cambridge Edition about his upcoming cooking stint at Newmarket Racecourse
WORDS BY NICOLA FOLEY
I n celebration of the King’s coronation in May, Newmarket Racecourse will be welcoming cooking royalty Michel Roux to the Rowley Mile for a special culinary event. The Chez Roux Experience, part of the QIPCO Guineas Festival, will run from 5-7 May, offering exceptional fine dining combined with some of the finest flat racing in the world. The association between the Rouxs and the Jockey Club goes back a number of years, with the chefs of the family regularly cooking not just at Newmarket Racecourse, but also Cheltenham and Epsom, since 2017. But the Roux family connection with racing goes back further, with Michel’s father Albert serving as private chef to legendary racehorse trainer Major Peter Cazalet for eight years prior to co-founding Le Gavroche. “My dad was a very keen racegoer, and always used to study the form and ‘have a flutter’, as they say,” recalls Michel. “I’m
cooking dynasty, Michel admits that following his father and uncle’s footsteps into hospitality seemed fated from a young age. “I started as a pastry apprentice at the age of 16, when I left school. I knew I didn’t want to carry on in education and had this massive urge to start work,” he explains. “I went down the apprenticeship route, which I still firmly believe is the best way into our industry, especially if you want to be a chef. “I began as a pastry chef – that’s a good first step,” he advises. “It gives you a certain rigour, an understanding of recipes and methodology. Pastry is more of a science; it gives you a good grounding.” From there, Michel would go on to take the reins at Le Gavroche, maintaining two Michelin stars for the iconic Mayfair restaurant, and becoming a TV personality thanks to regular appearances on shows including Masterchef . And while he acknowledges the many pressures and challenges currently faced by the sector (the rising costs are ‘crippling’, he laments), he is firm in the belief that the catering industry is exactly where
I love the thrill of the races, the atmosphere and the buzz
not an expert and don’t know who’s the favourite or anything like that, but I love the thrill of the races, the atmosphere and the buzz – and I confess that I do have a little look in-between serving the food!” At Chez Roux, diners will be treated to a choice of four starters, four mains and four desserts. “People will arrive and have some lovely canapés and champagne, and then a choice of seasonal starters; for example, sea bass tartare, jellied beef tea with soft boiled egg,” shares Michel. “Then for main course, we’ve got a saddle of Herdwick lamb – and Balmoral venison
HORSES FOR COURSES Michel will prepare four divine choices for starter, main and dessert
he wants to be.
of course. For dessert we’ve got rhubarb, which is in season, and also a chocolate whisky tart – I’ve got a real sweet tooth so the tart is definitely up my street, in fact I’ll probably be having at least one of those a day while I’m at Newmarket!” As with much of Michel’s cooking, the emphasis is on classic French technique, respect for seasonality and top-quality ingredients – a philosophy he has carried with him since his earliest days as a teenage apprentice in Paris. Born into a bona fide
“To be honest, I can’t imagine doing anything other than hospitality,” he smiles. “It’s a wonderful job – in fact, I don’t see it as a job; it’s a way of life, and I love what I do. If I didn’t, I wouldn’t be doing it!” Packages for the Chez Roux Experience, which include access to the racing and panoramic views of the action, plus a four-course meal and full afternoon tea, start from £320. Visit thejockeyclub. co.uk for more information and to book.
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