SAVOUR & SIP
TRIED & TESTED
Nicola Foley returns to a fine dining favourite with a new team at the helm – and an exceptional menu AT THE GONVILLE The Terrace W here’s good for a really nice meal in Cambridge?” is a question I get asked an umami-rich miso mayo atop a puffed rice cracker for me, and a creamy and crisp wild mushroom arancini for my veggie
dining partner. Fresh-from-the-oven bread and a scoop of (heavenly) black pepper butter followed, along with our starters: I tried the squid stuffed with Spanish rice, served with juicy shrimp and a drizzle of sticky smoked-pepper coulis; while over on the other side of the table, mushroom dumplings in a rich, perfectly seasoned broth went down a storm. Nodding to Dry January, we forgo the wine list for raspberry and rose mocktails – a lovely option for any non-drinkers and designated drivers – although the extensive selection, including some uber-local tipples from Chilford Hall Vineyard, will please any wine buff. Next up on the food front are our mains, which is where Chef Jamie really proves his mettle. My steak – a beautiful cut of sirloin, perfectly cooked – is paired with a golden potato terrine, unctuous cauliflower, drizzled with tamarind puree and served with sag aloo and puffed wild rice; bringing a perfect level of spice and a deliciously sour-sweet sauce, it’s a surefire winner for non-meat-eaters. Desserts were equally impressive, with the chef going off- menu to create a beautiful white chocolate and yuzu mousse topped with an artful tuile lattice, a quenelle of rosemary ice cream and a smattering of edible flowers. It almost looked too good to eat. From live music events to the return of dining on the lawn in summer, there’s many reasons to visit The Gonville in the coming months. With its fantastic front- of-house service and talent in the kitchen, I have no doubt that the team will make good on its goal of putting the hotel on the map. Next time I’m asked for a Cambridge dinner recommendation, I know where I’ll be suggesting… truffle puree, sweet roasted chantenay carrots and lashings of velvety red wine jus: a simply gorgeous marriage of flavours and textures. We also sampled the tandoori
a lot. And despite having a pretty firm finger on the pulse of the city’s culinary comings and goings, it does occasionally stump me. Particularly if the person picking my brains is keen to try somewhere new; or at least somewhere they’ve not been before. I’ll confess that The Gonville had slipped off my radar as a recommendation. But with a new manager, head chef and menu – plus exciting plans on the horizon – there’s never been a better time to revisit this Cambridge classic. Proudly overlooking Parker’s Piece with two vintage Bentleys parked out front, the hotel makes an immediate impression – particularly by night, thanks to the twinkling, glass-fronted restaurant. Inside, colourful velvet furnishings, sleek tiling regularly hosting live music events and offering casual bites, while The Terrace restaurant gives guests a chance to see head chef Jamie DeCruz flex his creativity with an elegant fine dining menu. Previously working under Cotto’s Hans Schweitzer at the hotel, DeCruz has recently stepped into the spotlight to helm the kitchen, working with new manager Robert Ogrodnik to reinvent the food offering. Together, their ambition is to deliver a premium experience for locals and hotel guests alike – putting the venue on the map for exceptional, accessible fine dining without the pain of a complicated and competitive booking system, or the eye-watering expense usually associated with a top-level tasting menu. This compact menu, much of it created with local produce, takes inspiration from around the world. Spanish, Indian and Italian influences are all in evidence, as well as modern British flavours. We begin with a pair of amuse bouches: tuna tartare with and soft lighting give an air of luxury. The Atrium serves as a stylish cocktail bar,
A gorgeous marriage of flavours and textures
FINE ART (Top to bottom) Mushroom arancini; sirloin steak with potato terrine and roasted carrots; white chocolate and yuzu mousse; The Gonville’s stylish Terrace. Food images by Daisy Dickinson
CAMBSEDITION.CO.UK MARCH 2023 53
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