LOVELY JUBILEE
Fit for a CROWNING GLORY Queen AS REGAL REVELRY UNFOLDS ACROSS CAMBRIDGESHIRE, MIRIAM BALANESCU LOOKS AT THE HISTORY OF JUBILEE FOOD – AND WHAT’S ON THE MENU THIS YEAR
espite the fact that, under the Roman Catholic Church, Jubilees have been honoured since 1300 AD, it was only in
1809 that the first proper jamboree got underway. Recognising George III’s 50 years on the throne, the event saw soirées, plum puddings, seasonal delicacies and jellies of all shapes and shades. “Feasting was a tradition focused on the court,” states culinary history consultant Dr Sue Bailey. “However, there was a spectacular week-long joust at London’s Smithfield Market for Edward III’s Golden Jubilee in 1376. No record of the food survives.” “Whole oxen were roasted in towns like Windsor and Chester,” says food historian Sam Bilton – a tradition which has continued in the counties. “The meat was donated by the Prince of Wales, a rich landowner or noble, and distributed to the poor. Beef was – and arguably still is – a luxury food. It would have been a special treat for the working population, particularly in large cities. Most people would not have had the means to cook a joint of any meat, as relatively few homes had stoves or access to ovens.” AN EXCUSE TO BANQUET AND FEAST COMMUNALLY
both London and Edinburgh during her 2002 Golden Jubilee.” Queen Victoria would top George III’s efforts 78 years later, dining alongside 50 dignitaries on French fare of croquettes, poulet and bombes glacées (tallying six to seven courses), while expansive open-air feasts were held in her name. According to historian Ivan Day, The Jubilee of George the Third was reprinted in 1887 to help instruct partygoers. Today, the Jubilee street party lives on, with food and drink at its heart. “Lavish is probably the first word that comes to mind in terms of Jubilee food, an excuse to banquet and feast communally,” says Emma. “It has traditionally also been a
A fete was held in Queen Charlotte’s house and gardens at Frogmore, with non-nobles invited to enjoy negus (hot, spiced port), sherry, jellies and sweetmeats. “It was great PR for the royal household,” says Emma Kay, founder of the Museum of Kitchenalia. “It’s important to mention here that the King himself was not present for any of this jollity, retiring early due to his ongoing illness. “This open house and garden party tradition has been maintained over the centuries,” Emma adds. “Queen Victoria staged several garden parties at Buckingham Palace and Windsor Castle for her Diamond Jubilee in 1897, and Queen Elizabeth II hosted some across
54 JUNE 2022 CAMBSEDITION.CO.UK
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