FOOD EDITION
CHEF RECOMMENDS Sizzle and spice – all things nice Subodh Gautam, owner of the Old Crown Girton, explains why Nepalese dining is so special With authentic Nepalese curries and sizzling mixed grills, the Old Crown in Girton is certainly drawing in the locals looking for delicious winter food. “Customers are loving our new speciality Nepalese dishes in particular,” says owner Subodh Gautam, who moved to Britain from Nepal in 2009. He and his business partners Ravi Acharya and Purna Man Bajracharya took over the Girton pub earlier this year. Now, it’s part of a five-strong pub- restaurant chain, Lapen Inns. “Nepalese cuisine uses some unique herbs and flavours,” he adds. “We do eat Indian, Bangladeshi and Pakistani curries in Nepal, but ours are slightly different, milder and less oily – and with a different balance of herbs and spices that produces more flavour than heat.” Nepalese cuisine draws on Indian and Chinese culinary traditions, while also showcasing its own unique local ingredients and techniques. Staples include rice (bhat), typically served with lentils (dhal) as part of the classic dish dhal bhat. Lentils are a significant source of protein in Nepal, and dhal is a popular dish. Potatoes, tomatoes, cauliflower, spinach and green beans are commonly used too – and while many Nepalese people are vegetarian, meat such as chicken, goat (mutton) and buffalo are used as the basis for everyday meals and special occasions. Speciality dishes at the Old Crown include a spicy lamb stir-fry called Bhutuwa and Lasun Kukhura Khursani (or LKK for
short), which translates to garlic, chicken, chilli. Lasun Lamb Khursani, or LLK, is the lamb version. There’s also Chicken Rum Rum, Rara King Prawn and a popular fish curry on the menu. “Nepalese dishes use a combination of spices such as turmeric, cumin, coriander seeds, ginger, chillies, garlic and fresh herbs such as coriander leaves,” explains Sub. “We have timur (a type of pepper) and jwano or ajwain seeds, which have a bitter, thyme-like flavour. We also use spring onions, garam masala and five spices – methi (fenugreek), kalonji (nigella seeds), gira (cumin seeds) and saunf (fennel seeds). Marinating lamb, beef and chicken in different spice combinations gives our mixed grills an authentic Nepalese twist.” Flavour is the aim, rather than heat. “We make sure the spices are used in a ratio where you can feel the heat but the dish still has a nice flavour,” explains Sub. “Our Kathmandu tikka is succulent chicken breast cubes marinated in cheese and cream, cooked in a tandoor oven with a hint of crushed black pepper. It’s a dry dish and very mild, ideal for someone wanting classic pub grub. Our rack of lamb is dry too, but you can order the curry sauce separately, perhaps tarka dhal, korma or masala sauce to spice things up. We can always switch up the spice level if customers want something hotter in winter.” Nepalese cuisine has a different balance of herbs and spices
CROWN JEWELS Subodh Gautam (above right) with chef Raju Bhusal (above left); interior (below)
CAMBSEDITION.CO.UK NOVEMBER 2024 57
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