REVIEW
TRIED & TESTED
THE CHUBBY FROG Edition’s Phoebe Harper heads to Cambridgeshire’s quirkiest pub for some decadent dining Brunch with bite at I wouldn’t typically think of a pub as the first port of call for brunch. However, since opening in December last year, a small, quirky bolthole in Caxton
has established a reputation for brunch offerings that hasn’t escaped my attention. On entering The Chubby Frog, bypassing the A-frame outside that heralds this aubergine-coloured building as the ‘Home of the Brunch’, it seems the rest of Cambridgeshire already got the memo. It’s just midday (brunch is served until 2pm on Mondays, Thursdays, Fridays and Sundays) on a bog-standard weekday and the pub is practically full – whether with friends sharing a catch-up over a mammoth full English, or businessmen trying to have a serious meeting despite monstrous brisket burgers being served in front of them. Aside from the lure of the food, the pub is a destination in itself – a magical cocktail of dark, cosy and eclectic interiors, with an extremely welcoming roaring log fire. It’s as if the pub has been picked up and transplanted from Wonderland to be dropped by the side of the road in the middle of this unsuspecting, quiet country village. Expect decadent furnishings, with leather Chesterfield sofas and sumptuous velvet armchairs in a jewel-like palette, greenery drooping from the lights and a neon sign reading ‘I solemnly swear that I am up to no good’ illuminating the room. This opulent treasure trove is the work of creative mastermind and owner Hayley Scott Summers, who is joined by partner chef Craig heading up the kitchen. ON THE MENU With an extensive offering including everything from a breakfast burrito bomb to a katsu chicken burger, I defy you not to find something that makes your mouth water on The Chubby Frog’s brunch menu. After approximately half an hour tormenting ourselves over what to order, I finally decide on the eggs royale with extra avocado. Meanwhile, my dining partner opts for a bespoke brioche bun, which Hayley describes as the brunch equivalent of a Build-A-Bear Workshop – and probably much more enjoyable. The towering assembly of a garlic and herb flat
mushroom, hash browns, smoked bacon and a poached egg incites my envy, before my own dish is served seconds later. The English muffins are pillowy and toasted to perfection, while the generous serving of smoked salmon feels deliciously indulgent. I always find hollandaise sauce to be a real risk, having suffered with poached eggs practically drowning in a sea of vinegar. Get it wrong and that’s your whole plate ruined. Happily, this sauce – topped with chives – is the ideal level of mustardy goodness, with a lemony kick (not too overpowering) that complements the salmon perfectly. Best of all, the poached eggs deliver an Instagram-worthy moment of gooiness when breaking the yolk, which oozes forth in a blazing orange – the tell- tale sign of a well-sourced free-range egg. THE VERDICT This hidden gem combines the cosy atmosphere of a quintessential country pub with the cosmopolitan feel of a city cocktail bar. The food was delicious, with generous portion sizes that saw me through until dinner. The fun, laidback atmosphere inside the pub is equally enjoyable – and as Hayley leaves us to prepare for the evening’s 80s-themed quiz night, we are loathe to pull ourselves away. Aside from being the ‘Home of the Brunch’, this local newcomer has also been making noises concerning its Sunday roasts. I think I know when I’ll be back...
SWEET AND SAVOURY Find options both indulgent and delicate inside The Chubby Frog’s chic environment
CAMBSEDITION.CO.UK APRIL 2024 45
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