FOOD EDITION
RESTAURANT REVIEW Taste sensations on tap Louise Hoffman pays a visit to gastropub and beer house Pint Shop to experience its menu and ambience first-hand H ospitality is at its finest, I always think, when the quality is exceptional, yet its delivery appears effortless to the guest – and this is certainly the case at Pint Shop at 10 Peas Hill. It’s not really effortless though, as a
huge amount of creativity, skill and hard work goes into every element, from menu curation to interior decor, food and drinks preparation to hosting. Each of these, as you experience it, tells you a little about the personality and ethos of the establishment. After a warm welcome, I sat and surveyed my surroundings over a refreshing strawberryade garnished with mint. There is a laid-back urban sophistication to the interior design, which complements the architecture of the 19th-century Grade II listed building. The sage walls feature modern artworks, a large window frames tumbling fronds of pot plant greenery and underfoot is a fine herringbone floor. Meanwhile, a nod to the industrial comes with metal poles on the banquette seating and suspended from the ceiling, supporting the downlighters that provide the room’s ambient illumination. Shining directly down onto each table, they afford a sense of intimacy – that it’s just you and your companions, the other tables fading into the background. Pint Shop, as its name suggests, is known for its beer options, boasting an ever-changing selection of 30+ taps of beer and cider, from old-school bitter to super- hazy NEIPAs. Looking at the menu, I spot another highlight for which the restaurant is renowned: the Pint Shop Scotch egg.
When it arrives, I can see how it’s earned its reputation. Slicing through the crispy coating and layer of sausage meat, the perfectly cooked egg releases its sunny yolk. Apple and mustard ketchup, decked with pickled mustard seeds, provides a punchy hit of accent flavour. I also tried a newer addition to the menu: the rose harissa roasted cauliflower salad with chipotle crème fraiche, sumac and citrus dressing. This is a blend that, especially thanks to the harissa, gives a delightful depth of flavour. (Top tip: for a light bite or starter, order the cauliflower salad along with the classic hummus and garlic flatbreads, to share – the flavour and texture combination works brilliantly.) Portion sizes are happily generous; particularly so with certain dishes, such
A huge amount of creativity, skill and hard work goes into every element, from menu curation to interior decor
54 MAY 2025 CAMBSEDITION.CO.UK
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