SAVOUR & SIP
Low-hanging fruit ELISHA EATS BLACKBERRY BUSHES MAY BE THORNY, BUT THE FRUIT IS WORTH THE PAIN. ELISHA YOUNG (AKA @ELISHA.EATS ON INSTAGRAM) SHARES SOME FORAGING TIPS, PLUS IDEAS ON HOW TO ENJOY YOUR AUTUMNAL HARVEST
othing marks the end of English summer like blackberries. When the glossy black clusters start
appearing on the brambles, it’s time to put on long trousers, retrieve some tubs from the back of your kitchen cupboards and head out into the fields with a sense of steely determination. Because – as delicious as the berries are – they’re also protected by some pretty vicious thorns. No pain, no gain. For me, blackberry season is so nostalgic. I remember marvelling at the profusion of fruit growing along every footpath and river; scrambling around fields trying to grab the shiniest, juiciest berries (which I could never quite reach) and smearing the purple juice across my cheeks like warpaint, as I returned with scratched arms, triumphant with my loot and ready to gorge myself until my teeth were stained black and I couldn’t move. Even people who usually dismiss the idea of foraging can get behind blackberry picking. With the price of everything increasing at the moment, it’s nice to know there’s free and tasty fruit out there, if you know where to look. Although I usually suggest visiting Cambridge Market or a local greengrocer for seasonal produce, blackberries are so widely available and easy to pick, I would recommend gathering your own. Especially since the sun-ripened fruit is so much sweeter and more flavourful than shop-bought, with an addictive tang and luscious, juicy texture. Just keep in mind, you don’t want to pick fruit from bushes close to a main road or railway line. They’ll be contaminated by pollution and probably aren’t nice to eat. In the same vein, berries that are low down and close to the ground are best left alone, since passing dogs may have thoughtfully ‘watered’ them. Annoyingly, the best are usually right at the top of the bush where they get the most sun. Short of carrying
HUMBLE CRUMBLE Blackberries are the perfect base for this British staple. Crush them slightly to help cook down – and try a little vanilla extract
© ELISHA YOUNG
into a pie or crumble, where they melt into an unctuous jam – the epitome of autumn comfort food. Add apples, pears or elderberries to the mixture if you fancy some variety and contrast, but I enjoy my blackberries barely sweetened and seasoned with a little cinnamon to boost flavour. As for the crumble topping, it’s infinitely customisable. I’m a fan of adding porridge oats and demerara sugar for extra flavour and texture, but you could go with chopped nuts, spices, honey, stem ginger or even desiccated coconut. Once you’ve gone to the effort of collecting, there’s nothing like enjoying the (literal) fruits of your labour. A homemade crumble, fresh from the oven, overflowing with hot, bubbling juice and covered with crunchy, buttery oats is hard to beat – but it tastes that bit better when you gathered the ingredients yourself. Local, organic, seasonal. Who can argue with that?
around a stepladder (I wouldn’t judge you for it), one handy hack is to grab a long umbrella with a hooked handle and pull down thorny branches to harvest – but be careful, it’s very easy to catch yourself. It’s also important to make sure that you identify what you’re foraging. While blackberries are easy to recognise, it’s best to err on the side of caution. Equally, avoid taking too much from one plant or trespassing on anyone’s land. Blackberries are soft and spoil quickly, so don’t stockpile more than you need. However, it’s this soft, squishy texture that also means they’re excellent baked
Blackberries are soft and spoil quickly, so don’t stockpile more than you need
CAMBSEDITION.CO.UK SEPTEMBER 2022 45
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