RESTAURANT REVIEW
Louise Hoffman pays a visit to Market House to sample the brand-new seasonal menu from its head chef House: special
Y ou can’t be placed much more centrally in Cambridge than next to Market Square. Hence, Market House has sealed its reputation as both a gastronomic and social hub. The Grade II listed building in which the restaurant is housed has watched over the marketplace since the late 18th century. What tales could be told by those huge Georgian windows, which still provide superlative people-spotting opportunities, as well as bathing the elegantly designed rooms of the restaurant in light. The interior also conveys subtle stories. Wave patterns on the ceiling- mounted art installation represent the magpie wing bridge from Chinese mythology, on which two young lovers met, here depicted in glass at either end of the room. Dual dining Once operating two separate British and Asian menus across its main dining room and wine cellar, Market House has recently made both cuisines available throughout the restaurant, allowing guests to choose their preference or mix and match dishes. Popular stalwarts include crispy Gressingham duck leg and 28-day dry-aged Hereford rump steak, but this is a menu that evolves with the seasons – and also,
as of this month, a new head chef, with Matthew Voisey having just launched his first Market House menu. Having sampled both the outgoing and incoming menus, the change in direction under Matt is clear. The dishes draw in new inspirations: Portuguese punched potatoes accompanying squid ink bisque with roasted octopus and braised fennel, and – undoubtedly the pièce de résistance for me – melt-in-the-mouth braised ox cheek with roast pumpkin squash purée, confit carrot and a flavoursome kale crisp. Hearty, comforting and rich. It is autumn on a plate. Tastes of the times Other highlights from the new menu include king scallops with roe butter, soured cream and crispy potato to start. For mains, celeriac noodles with wild mushrooms, cashew cream, roasted hazelnuts and lovage; pan-fried whole plaice with confit salt cod, garlic sauce and chimichurri and, finally, caramelised Jerusalem artichokes alongside smoked turnip, shiitake butter foam and sorrel. For a sweet encore, don’t miss the almond polenta cake with pear and Chantilly cream for the perfect autumnal indulgence. What a start to the season!
FRESH-FACED Market House introduces head chef Matthew Voisey and a new menu this autumn
CAMBSEDITION.CO.UK OCTOBER 2025 45
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