ELISHA EATS
Prepare to savour seasonal bounty, as Elisha Young locates some of the many restaurants in Cambridge that are elevating produce through their creative menus, culinary flair and comfort food AUTUMNAL EATS I t’s that time of year again: when you look out of the window and wonder, ‘How is it dark already?’, there’s a chill in the air and lots of crisp leaves crunching underfoot.
Some people love the cooler weather and cosy nights that come with autumn. But if you’re like me and mourn summer’s end, at least we have delicious food to look forward to. Warming stews, hearty soups and stodgy puddings that stick to your ribs. October brings pumpkins, certainly, as well as apples, pears, leeks, quince, winter squash, carrots, beetroot and more. But with all these seasonal ingredients on offer, where’s the best place to enjoy them? Here are some of Cambridge’s top spots for making the most of the autumn produce. Fine dining Vanderlyle is the first restaurant I think of when it comes to seasonal dining. Tucked down Mill Road, the unassuming exterior hides one of my favourite eateries in Cambridge. The plant-focused menu highlights the best of our local produce, paired with friendly service and a beautiful interior. Each visit brings different food – but it’s always surprising, fun and delicious. October dishes at Vanderlyle have included peanut parfait and fresh dahlia petals with raspberries from Cambridge’s non-profit Cofarm and carrot rigatoni with seaweed caviar. Plus, there’s the option of a non- alcoholic drinks pairing if, like me, you’re not a big drinker but would still like the full fine dining experience. Then there’s the Michelin-starred Restaurant Twenty-Two. The most affordable way to sample the award- winning food is by ordering from the lunch menu, but you’re still treated to three courses of incredible cooking, alongside the famously good bread and butter. The hyper-seasonal menu changes continuously, but last October featured duck breast brushed with a honey soy caramel and was served with seasonal leaves from Cofarm. And the October before that it offered roasted pigeon with blackberry ketchup, Cofarm celeriac purée
See Elisha’s Instagram @elisha.eats for up-to-date reviews of eats around Cambridge sweet treat, The Linton Kitchen pairs seasonal fruit with botanical bakes to a mouthwatering effect, with a little sister cafe, Barbarella, in Chesterton. Or head to The Cherry Pit on King Street, an American diner-style cafe where you can grab a slice of pie – all made in-house – and peruse the vinyl selection. Settle down and enjoy classic apple pie in buttery pastry, topped with crumble. Or better yet, pumpkin pie. What could be more autumnal than that? that the service charge is included in the prices, so you know exactly what you’ll spend from the outset. Laidback and luscious For something a bit more relaxed, give Provenance Kitchen in Whittlesford a try. It’s best-known for the use of open fires and charcoal grills in its cooking, plus the epic Sunday roasts featuring a whole cauliflower smothered in cheese sauce. The menu centres around locally sourced and seasonal ingredients – think burrata paired with uchiki kuri squash from Flourish Produce in Hildersham, or house-cured pork with apple ketchup made using fruit from the local orchard. If you’re open to temptation for a
and savoy cabbage. In short, using fresh ingredients in interesting, delicious ways. If that feels too intimidating, the team behind Restaurant Twenty-Two recently opened Margaret’s a few doors down on Chesterton Road. This modern bistro focuses on the best of British produce, with a menu designed to reflect the time of year, support local growers and minimise waste. Visit @margaretscambridge on Instagram for some mouthwatering food photography. While we’re on the topic of modern bistros, it would be a crime not to mention Fancett’s on Mill Road. Featured in both this year’s Michelin Guide and Good Food Guide , this neighbourhood eatery serves the best of each season, sourced from small, trusted suppliers. The reservations here fill up fast (and I should know – I’ve been trying to snag a table for months), but it’s worth persisting for the food. October dishes have included cream of chestnut mushroom soup with pickled girolles, classic pear tarte tatin and an autumnal tartlet with whipped goat’s cheese, baby beetroot, black fig and chicory. I also like
If you are like me and mourn summer’s end , at least we have some delicious food to look forward to
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