FOOD & DR INK
sincere about the possibility that his restaurant can make an actual, bona fide difference to individuals and to the planet. “There’s no rosy nonsense about it,” he says. “If someone eats twelve burgers a year, but they have three of ours, then I’ve actually made a difference. That’s what annoys me about design: we can make better equipment for disabled people, but it’s completely inaccessible because it costs ten of thousands of pounds. But with this, we can make a burger, and if Mr Meat chooses to come to us, then we’ve actually... done something.” But only one day off? Even on a plant- powered diet, there’s only so much a man can give. And although Alfy’s clear dedication to his business is reaping rave reviews and repeat custom, a balanced life is in sight for him. “It’s been seven days a week, 8am till 11pm. Maybe I get off early once a week… and I do feel pretty tired: it’s finally catching up to me,” he admits. “We’ve got some new chefs starting, so hopefully I’ll be able to take a bit of time off soon. People ask me, ‘Oh, are you scared to let go?’ And I’m like, ‘No way. Please have it!’,” Alfy laughs. “Some days you do ask yourself – is working every day worth it?” He waits for a beat, before his face cracks into a huge grin. “Yeaaahh – it is.” l
lucky, I suppose. I try and choose the right people,” he says, “but letting people go is hard. I think that’s the other good thing about having been a designer. When I was at college, we were taught that you’ve got to disconnect yourself from this thing you’re working on. A lot of your heart goes into design – and the same with cooking as well – but if you take all the critiques personally, you’re not going to be very good at your job. You need to look at the thing as a product of what you made, and take critique on it. If it’s not good, you’ve got to say there and then: ‘It’s not right’. Ultimately, we’re putting a burger on a plate. If it’s not good, just redo it.” Alongside Alfy’s matter-of-fact approach to management, he’s also
now is your chance to impress someone with a plant-based diet. The diner could think, ‘Oh, this is bad, and so this whole diet is bad’, but my chefs care so much that they don’t screw it up. A lot of my team are very hardcore – some of them will only date other vegans. A cult, not a business – ‘cult classic, not bestseller’,” he laughs. Then he explains The Streets lyric that went sailing over my head. “Did you get that reference? It was in the early business plan as well. I don’t think they got it, either…” No matter how driven you are, going from working on your own as a designer to having to run a team of people is a challenge. “I do enjoy it. I’ve been really
“Your cooking now is your chance to impress someone”
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