SAVOUR & S I P
Cooking the books CHEF’S TABLE LEADING UP TO THE HOLIDAYS, CHEF ALEX RUSHMER OFFERS SOME LITERARY GIFT SUGGESTIONS FOR THE SELF-CONFESSED FOODIE OF THE FAMILY
what it took to become a world-class sommelier as a journalistic assignment. But, soon enough, the alluring and enduring appeal of wine began to dominate her life. In Cork Dork , she recounts her journey from novice to expert via some of the most famous wines, and cellars, in existence. There’s plenty here for the wine nerd, but it’s also easily accessible for the casual slurper. Uncultivated is, ostensibly, Andy Brennan’s mindful treatise on the craft of artisanal cider making. However, that does a disservice to the intricate and thoughtful meanderings on broader subjects, including farming, politics, agriculture and the economy. Another writer with unprecedented skill at weaving larger narratives into his masterful prose was A.A. Gill. Given how much of a new-found appreciation we have for dining out, I’d highly recommend reacquainting (or merely acquainting) yourselves with his food writing. Table Talk is a joy from beginning to end, and belongs on the bookshelf of every diner. Finally, it’s inevitable to end up with several cookbooks in the pile beside the bed that would make excellent gifts for the dedicated food lover. Over two decades on from the publication of The French Laundry Cookbook , Thomas Keller, Michael Ruhlman and Susie Heller reunited to write the follow-up, and suffice to say, The French Laundry, Per Se was worth the wait. There is a wealth of information in its pages, even beyond the (often daunting) recipes. Spend a few days with it and become a better cook, merely through osmosis. Just as intimidating – but no less covetous, thanks to the gilded pages – is Björn Frantzén’s eponymously titled book, Frantzén , a stunning hardback detailing dishes, inspirations and recipes from the famed three-star Stockholm restaurant. With a London outpost just announced, now is the time to plan next year’s dining adventures, and there’s no better place to start than with this book – an ideal accompaniment to a Boxing Day sandwich.
ith endless kitchen gadgets and vouchers for culinary experiences available, buying Christmas gifts for
the food lover or enthusiastic cook in your life is generally pretty easy. Freshly published, marquee-name recipe books are in ready supply, of course, but there are many other food-related titles that would make excellent pressies for budding chefs. With that in mind, I thought I’d present a rundown of the books that have kept me entertained over the last 12 months. First up are a trio of chef memoirs and biographies which provide an antidote to the testosterone-riddled tomes that dominate the genre. Iliana Regan’s Burn the Place is a brilliantly candid account of addiction, recovery, queer identity and cooking in post-industrial rust-belt America. Clearly a skilled cook (her Chicago restaurant, Elizabeth, has held a Michelin star since 2014), Regan’s writing has netted her awards, and the memoir is currently in development to be turned into a TV series by HBO. Also being adapted for the screen is Kwame Onwuachi’s Notes from a Young Black Chef , a no-holds-barred account of what it takes to succeed in some of the world’s top kitchens. Encompassing growing up in the Bronx, Nigeria and Louisiana, Onwuachi’s story is both inspiring and an indictment of the systemic racism inhabiting even the best kitchens. Rudolph Chelminski’s The Perfectionist is a painstakingly detailed account of the life (and death) of Bernard Loiseau – one of France’s most celebrated chefs. Anyone wanting to understand the (often self- imposed) pressures of haute cuisine, how kitchen life can impact mental health, and the influence of the Michelin Guide on fine dining, need look no further than this book. Equally absorbing, no less passionate, but perhaps more meditative, I’ve also enjoyed two books written by people who stumbled across a new passion and took it to great success through sheer hard work. Initially, Bianca Bosker began researching
RECIPE FOR SUCCESS Among the recommendations are a couple of candid memoirs from bold new faces, and a witty collection of acclaimed food writing
CAMBSEDITION.CO.UK DECEMBER 2021 67
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