CAMBR I DGE ON A P L ATE
“Game is healthy and often locally sourced”
continues. “They have a great relationship with local shoots and dealers, and we’re already discussing the first orders. In terms of ‘organic’, where possible we use local producers who operate in an organic way. It is not always financially viable for small-scale local producers to get certified as organic, so we work directly with suppliers on a trust basis to guarantee organic produce regardless of a certificate. We are supplied locally by Jake Ball at Seed To Feed micro farm, which grows organically, sustainably and ethically.” Another local restaurateur, Alex Rushmer at Vanderlyle, also mentions his supplier. He and Lawrence Butler work directly with farmers, growers, producers and suppliers to create ingredient-led menus that ebb and flow through the seasons. “We are not dogmatic about anything we cook, but we just happen to be cooking vegetables at the moment. We use Flourish Produce, which is about as organic as you can possibly get, and the best produce we can get our hands on. The owner, Calixta Killander in Hildersham, specialises in growing for chefs with an ethos of sustainability.” So, whether you are a vegetarian eater of organic produce or a dyed-in-the- feather game eater, remember the benefits, learn from history and support your local suppliers, growers and restaurants.
business, we have seen a tremendous change in the Cambridge organic food scene. Awareness about the environmental impact of food is greater now than ever before, and more people are making conscientious decisions to eat food with a lower environmental footprint. Membership of our organic box scheme is at a record level.” It also should not be forgotten that fundamentally, game birds are organic and wild. The importance of game in our diet has decreased, but game is healthy and often locally sourced. In Cambridge and nearby villages, The Art of Meat, The Gog Butchery, Leech & Sons in Shelford and Mill Road Butchers all sell top-quality game when in season. When I speak to Sam Carter, owner of Restaurant Twenty-Two, one of the most respected restaurants in Cambridge, he tells me they take full advantage of game season. “Rabbits, hare, pigeons, pheasant, partridge, venison, grouse and mallard are all likely to feature on our menu. Dishes such as grey-legged partridge with parsley root, trompette and jus gras; loin of venison with salt-baked kohlrabi, blackberry and chocolate; and roasted wood pigeon with pine, celeriac and pear. “Mill Road Butchers have an eye for quality produce and an understanding of what we are trying to achieve,” he
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