SAVOUR AND SIP
WITH ITS GLAM INTERIORS AND GOURMET FARE, THIS HIDDEN GEM ON MILTON ROAD PROMISES AN EVENING TO REMEMBER RESTAURANT REVIEW The Folio Bar & Kitchen
WORDS BY MIRIAM BALANESCU
For starters, we tried the focaccia – crisp and served on top of a mint-infused oil – and the creamy burrata with red, yellow and purple heritage tomatoes beautifully striped and trickled with an autumnal sweet balsamic glaze, plus pears, bringing lashings of both summer and winter seasonal flavours. Nodding to Veganuary with two (near entirely) plant- based mains, we move on to the egg and dairy-free plant Wellington, stuffed with oven-roasted borlotti beans and romanesco then served with slow, cider-roasted roscoff onion and a rich fennel and tomato sauce – which surprisingly adds almost a meatiness to the hearty meal. The fennel is the perfect flavour in this vegan take on a classic main. Next, we opt for the decidedly dairy-filled cottage cheese steak, drawn to the dish as an intriguing, untried delicacy. Roasted in za’atar and red pesto, the creaminess of the steak is cut through by the punchy Mediterranean spice, accompanied by a fluffy, lighter-than-air potato fondant, smoky asparagus, startlingly sweet tomatoes – roasted still on the vine – and a zesty red pepper beurre blanc. This is a bold marriage of Italian and Middle Eastern flavours with British gastronomic tradition, but it works. Finally, to finish, we choose the chocolate tart with a trio of locally made
ast year, the first Curio Collection property in Cambridge, The Fellows House, flung open its doors. And its foodie companion, The Folio Bar &
Kitchen, has rapidly become a cornerstone of the city’s culinary landscape. The second Hilton stay to make its way to Cambridge, the setting for this fine dining den was always guaranteed to be a lavish affair. A visit to either its restaurant or hotel (or both!) will not disappoint. The concept of The Fellows House, true to its name, is to make guests and diners feel as if they are lounging in an esteemed, historic seat of learning – reminiscent of the colleges of Oxford or Cambridge. Stepping into its glitzy interiors does have the effect of seeming like you’ve travelled into the past, with sleek marble floors and slouchy, plush chairs, oak wood touches with golden accentuations – evoking a time-honoured, Victorian aesthetic. The Folio has a cocktail list to match, each delicious drink named after a quote from various hallowed authors and thinkers, from A A Milne to Alan Turing. We opted for ‘The Principia’, a fruity sip with a nectarine tang, dusted with desiccated coconut, and ‘The History of Time’, a twist on the classic whisky prosecco cocktail, golden-coloured, warming and topped with honey foam.
berry compote – a slightly biting pairing to the dark and decadent chocolate. The bitter ganache is nestled into a cocoa pastry, surrounded by whirls of chocolate mousse. The final touch is Cambridgeshire- made vanilla ice cream, subtle and smooth. At The Folio Bar & Kitchen, it’s clear that finesse and fine ingredients come first, though the chef team’s fun interpretations of good old British grub – from roast dinners with superbly refined trimmings to vegan-friendly tofish and chips – also demonstrate oodles of flair and creativity. If you’re wondering where to go next for a delectable feast in Cambridge, this spot should be high on your list.
STYLISH AND TASTEFUL With sophisticated decor and delicious food, The Folio Bar & Kitchen puts on an impressive feast
CAMBSEDITION.CO.UK JANUARY 2023 47
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