SAVOUR & SIP
ELISHA EATS
SPRING Full of the joys of In an erratic month, Elisha Young (aka @elisha.eats on Instagram) praises a versatile allium that works in salads and stews alike, and is easily grown at home
W hat will the weather don’t have a crystal ball, and therefore can’t peer into the future. You could be reading this while basking in glorious sunshine and soaking up the sound of birdsong, or you could be huddled under a blanket as we experience a cold blast from the Arctic and a flurry of late snowstorms. As such, my seasonal pick for this month is a vegetable which pulls double duty as something fresh and vibrant, heralding the arrival of spring – or something comforting and tasty that does well with long cooking in a hearty meal. Spring onions – also known as scallions, green onions and salad onions – are a member of the allium family, which also includes leeks, chives, onions and garlic. This gives you a clue as to their flavour. They are sweeter and milder than onions, though can be pungent and a little spicy when eaten raw. This means that they are often used as a garnish for salads, dips and other dishes where their zippy flavour adds a gentle kick. be like in March? The problem with writing a monthly column is that I But spring onions are also fantastic when cooked. In fact, I think I might prefer them that way. Especially after they have been charred or fried and develop blackened edges; their sweetness and depth of flavour becomes more apparent. And, of course, spring onions form the base of many Chinese dishes when paired with ginger and garlic. When I was at university, I kept a Tupperware of sliced spring onions in my fridge so I could add handfuls to egg fried rice and stir-fried noodles (and feel somewhat more virtuous than if I hadn’t included any vegetables at all). Although you can sow spring onion seeds from March onwards, they are available all year round from anywhere you usually buy your vegetables. If you get them from your local greengrocer or supermarket, there’s also a handy trick to make them last longer. When slicing up your spring onions, keep
TOP IT OFF March brings some verdant treasures from the garden. Savour the crunch of fresh spring onions on rich noodles
© ELISHA YOUNG
over a medium-low heat using one or two tablespoons of a neutral oil. Meanwhile, boil your noodles of choice (I like chewy, ramen-style ones) and rinse them in cold water when they’re cooked so they retain their bounce. Once the spring onions are starting to go brown and crispy, remove them from the oil and add one tablespoon of dark soy sauce, one tablespoon of light soy sauce, as well as a teaspoon of white sugar over a low heat. When the sauce is bubbling, turn off the heat and return the noodles to the pan to coat in the sauce. Serve topped with the fried spring onions, admire your handiwork and then promptly scoff it all up.
the root and the bottom 2-3cm of the bulb intact. Place the bulbs in a glass of water, leave it on a windowsill and watch the onions regrow their leaves over several days. This can be a fun project for children, especially if you don’t have a garden. What could you make with your spring onion stash? Shanghai scallion oil noodles. This dish only uses six ingredients, but still packs a delicious punch – a combination of fragrant, umami and sweet. Plus, it’s speedy and simple enough that you can whip it up to enjoy in your lunch hour, no matter what the weather is doing. Slice up and julienne two or three large spring onions, then carefully fry the strips
CAMBSEDITION.CO.UK MARCH 2024 43
Powered by FlippingBook