Cambridge Edition July 2023 - Web

SAVOUR & SIP

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Afternoon

The Rupert Brooke’s new afternoon tea ticks all the boxes, finds Nicola Foley DELIGHT

T here are few hours in life more agreeable than the hour dedicated to the ceremony known as afternoon tea,” said Henry James – and we agree, but only when it’s done well. The problem is that, despite an abundance of options, it’s hard to find an

The Ten to Three Cream Tea takes its name from The Old Vicarage, Grantchester (“Stands the Church clock at ten to three? And is there honey still for tea?”), written – naturally – by Rupert Brooke, wartime poet and Grantchester’s most famous former resident. It’s served in the pub’s sun-dappled conservatory, given a sense of occasion with vases of dried flowers,

scones are feather-light, buttery and not too sweet, making a perfect receptacle for homemade blackberry jam and a lavish spread of clotted cream. Make sure to leave space for the sweet course: a plateful of colourful, handcrafted confections that prove to be this high tea’s crowning glory. From the raspberry and rose éclair to the rich chocolate tart, luscious buttercream-topped carrot cake and dainty macarons, it’s a masterclass in how to nail afternoon tea. The smiley staff are a joy, too, and the idyllic Grantchester location means you’re perfectly placed for a stroll along the meandering meadows after you’ve had your fill. As Henry James would say – what could be more agreeable than that? The afternoon tea is priced at £22, or £32 with the addition of a glass of Saffron Grange sparkling wine. It’s served between 3.30pm and 5pm from Wednesday to Saturday, with advance booking of 24 hours required. Find out more at therupertbrooke.com

afternoon tea that’s genuinely, properly good. All too often, we are presented with tiers of curling finger sandwiches, stone-hard scones, lacklustre cakes – and a hefty price tag to seal the

Perfectly placed for a stroll along the meadows

colourful candles and artfully piled vintage hardbacks. But all that’s secondary to the food itself, which is delightful from start to finish. Delicate finger

sandwiches on bouncy fresh bread are filled with smoked salmon, beef and horseradish, and cucumber with a generous slathering of butter (as is appropriate). The other savoury treats include handmade sausage rolls – warm from the oven, plump and herby – as well as a gorgeous smoked cheddar and tomato relish quiche. The

disappointing deal. It’s enough to put even die-hard afternoon tea fans off the whole business. Which is why we were so delighted to discover The Rupert Brooke’s splendid offering: a traditional afternoon tea with all the trimmings that’s executed to perfection, served in the picturesque setting of a gorgeous country pub.

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