FOOD & DR INK
The end of the season for Vacherin Mont d’Or, a gorgeous little cheese, is upon us. This funky little fellow is one you’ll have come across if you were fortunate enough to have made it away to the Swiss slopes this winter. It’s made in small batches by individual farmers from September until March from the milk of cows that have been brought down off of the mountain to shelter in warm barns for the winter. In the summer, the same cows produce milk that is used to make gruyère. It’s easy to forget the primary difference is gruyère is made from the milk of cows that are eating fresh mountain grass; while for the Vacherin, they’re consuming plenty of cut, moist silage. This is what gives the almost-liquid interior hints of farmyards and meadow flowers. The aromatic spruce bark that surrounds the cheese (holding it together) gives a suggestion of wood. While spooning directly from its wooden box is perfectly acceptable, cutting open the top of the rind, pouring in a little white wine and baking for 30 minutes makes for a completely irresistible bread-dipping session. But, to give you the heads-up, when these things mature, that farmyard smell sure can travel! There’s only 150,000 produced per season, which, considering they’re shipped all around the world, is not many. So, if you haven’t managed to squeeze one in yet, you’ve still got time – just. The chaps at The Gog cheese counter will sort you out with a fabulous last-of-the-season cheese, all without the need for that return flight to Geneva. thegog.com THE TEAM FROM THE GOG ADVISE ON THE SEASONAL PRODUCE TO SEEK OUT THIS MONTH NATURE’S LARDER
Head upstairs at The Grafton and you’ll find Amélie, an indie eaterie that’s been delighting the tastebuds of Cambridge with its crispy, melty flammekueche since opening last summer. In case you’re not familiar with this cafe’s speciality: it’s a traditional dish from Alsace that dates back to the 14th century, comprised of a dough base, a good smothering of crème fraiche with sliced onion, bacon and gruyère cheese. A pizza-like treat that can be adorned with all sorts of toppings, sweet and savoury. Now’s a great time to pay a visit as there’s a newmenu to sample, featuring updated varieties of flammekueche including salmon, spinach and ricotta; Moroccan lamb; goats’ cheese with roasted pine nuts and honey, plus banana with caramel and roasted almonds. amelierestaurants.co.uk NEW AT AMÉLIE
BUTCHERY COURSES Experience the art of traditional butchery in a relaxed hands-on Butchery Skills Masterclass at The Gog farm shop. Learn where meat comes from, how to get the most from each cut and different styles of cooking, as The Gog’s expert butchers promise a fun, informative evening. On arrival there’s a drink and snacks, and after the class there’s a homemade meal with wine and beer. Masterclasses are on 6 March and 3 April, at 6pm, and the event costs £128. eventbrite.co.uk
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