RESTAURANT REVIEW
Out on the front terrace, drinks were sipped in the positively Mediterranean heat, large umbrellas providing ample shade from which to enjoy the park-side view and soak up the mild bustle of the city. Flavours of the moment In the dining area of Gonville Kitchen, glass walls bathed its clean, faintly art- deco-styled interior with natural light. A genuinely good playlist of jazz classics provided more mid-century ambience and a large sliding door out to the terrace was opened up, allowing a light breeze to play pleasantly across the table. The menu was effective in its simplicity – a choice of three options for starters, mains and desserts. I opted for the tuna carpaccio to start and it was a fantastic appetiser for a summer’s day. A delicate slice of raw fish was served with piped dots of herb emulsion and splashes of an umami-rich veal reduction. Punctuated with wonderfully crispy capers and served on a bed of vibrant herb oil, it was a truly pleasing experience for the senses. For the main course, I chose the sea trout. Served with a velvety pomme purée and fish velouté, the beautifully coloured fillet was cooked to perfection, with a nice, crispy skin covering the tender flesh. Lightly brined ribbons of yellow and green courgette provided visual and textural contrast, as well as a balancing source of freshness amid this decadent dish, while a scattering of trout roe served as tiny flavour bombs, bursts of indulgence that heightened the whole course.
Punctuated with crispy capers and served on a bed of vibrant herb oil, it was truly pleasing for the senses
Starter and main were washed down with crisp white wine – a bottle of Amodo Pecorino, chilled to perfection, with glasses attentively topped up throughout. For dessert, a hearty serving of caramelised pineapple tarte tatin. This was the unexpected star of the show – sticky, sweet, creamy, fruity – and it dispelled my faintly held belief that pineapple-based
desserts belong in the 70s. A crowning moment of the meal – and I must stress that, from me, this is high praise: I’m not typically one who bothers leaving room for pudding. A highly enjoyable meal that tipped to the finer end of the spectrum while remaining pleasantly accessible – this is certainly one to visit for a luxurious lunch.
ALL THAT JAZZ Gonville Kitchen’s dining area (above) has art-deco stylings complemented by a playlist of jazz classics. The tuna carpaccio (top) was a highlight
46 SEPTEMBER 2026 CAMBSEDITION.CO.UK
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