TRAVEL
and trousers or sleeved maxi dress will allow you to move through the souks – the central marketplaces – without too much hassle from stallholders. If you’re heading to Marrakech for a long weekend, there are a few cultural sights you must throw into the mix: Le Jardin Majorelle was the home of Yves Saint Laurent, and is now open to the public. Head there to enjoy the botanical collection, blue-painted walls and newly opened museum dedicated to the designer’s work. A trip to the south of the city continues the fashion theme at the stunning El Badi Palace, a ruined complex of royal buildings that hosted Dior’s latest show. If you have a thing for zellige – traditional Moroccan mosaic tiles – don’t miss the Bahia Palace’s exquisite interiors. Round off your adventure at Le Jardin Secret, a recently restored garden that’s an excellent retreat from the hubbub of the Medina. Handily, directly opposite the entrance to Le Jardin Secret is Cafe Arabe, one of the only bars in the centre of the city. Make your way up to the roof terrace and order a bottle of the super-cheap Moroccan house wine, accompanied by the world’s finest breadsticks: spindly, salty and irresistible. Stay in your seat to hear the sunset Maghrib call to prayer from Marrakech’s many mosques, and watch clouds of swifts race across the rose-pink sky. Hungry? Braving the evening food sellers found in the Djemaa El Fna is a rite of passage, but the food can be all mouth and no trousers: you’re better off seeking out some of the superb eateries dotted around the Medina, or taking up
© CHARLOTTE GRIFFITHS
Head to the Souk Kafe for tangy, sour and butter-rich preserved lemon and chicken tagine, served with the fluffiest couscous"
rooftop terrace of the Henna Cafe, or enjoy delicious slow-roasted lamb on Mechoui Alley, near the olive souk: be brave, order enough for two and smother it with the provided heap of cumin salt. If your budget can stretch to a hammam – either within your riad, or at one of the stand-alone spas around the city – this is the perfect way to deep- clean away the stresses of everyday life. You’ll be led into a darkened room where you’ll be ritually steamed, slathered in mud, rinsed, scrubbed vigorously from head to toe (keep an eye out for the horrifying grey dirt lifted off your skin), then oiled to emerge blinking and cleaner than you’ve ever been in your life. Whatever’s left in your wallet after eating, drinking and scrubbing can easily be spent in the souks: you’ll wind up laden with butter-soft leather slippers, embroidered rugs, unique antique jewellery, cheerful ceramics of all shapes and sizes, and at least one battered silver teapot. Haggling is expected: keep the exchange rate in mind as prices are batted back and forth. Nose through the almost-hidden door of Mustapha Blaoui (near Riad 72) to marvel at this multi-storeyed, chandeliered cathedral of Moroccan interiors, recently recommended by Gwyneth Paltrow (and priced accordingly). Marrakech’s year-round warmth, super-cheap flights, staggering shopping, evocative dining experiences and indulgent spa treatments – all wrapped up in a city that’s changed little since it was first founded – make it an irresistible destination for a quick break from day- to-day life in grey Britain.
your riad’s offer to serve you a home- made feast. Head to the Souk Kafe for tangy, sour and butter-rich preserved lemon and chicken tagine, served with the fluffiest couscous; reserve a table at Terrasse des Epices for refined wicker- covered lamp-lit feasting, or head to its stylish sister restaurant Nomad for a more contemporary take on Moroccan cuisine. In the daytime, tiptoe around tortoises while tucking into falafel on the
LEFT Make sure you
leave room in your suitcase for all the unique finds from the souks
© CHARLOTTE GRIFFITHS
ISSUE 02 58
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