RESTAURANT REVIEW
W hen you enter Kibou on Jesus Lane, it feels like you’ve arrived at a luxury boutique hotel. The architecture of this 19th-century, Grade II listed building certainly helps in that regard, with its neoclassical columns and stucco porticoes. It was originally constructed as a bathhouse, before becoming the headquarters of the highly esteemed University Pitt Club (which still occupies the first floor to this day). It’s the interior decor, however, that’s the main ingredient in the luxe look of
on Hokkaido-style fried chicken is one of the new Japanese street-food-inspired dishes on Kibou’s spring/summer menu. Combine this with the nasu dengaku – charred aubergine with a rich, caramelised miso glaze, sesame and spring onion – for a contrast in texture. A bao is also a must. At Kibou, these pillowy, steamed treats come with a range of fillings, including chashu (pork belly) with mustard miso, chicken teriyaki with red onion pickles, marinated duck with teriyaki sauce and the richly flavoured oyster mushroom with truffle mayo (vegetarian and vegan options available). Also new to the menu, there’s an innovative sesame prawn toast bao sharer, served with its self-titled Kibou sauce. Firm favourites such as the panko-fried chicken, prawn or pumpkin croquette katsu curry and sweet glazed teriyaki chicken – both served with steamed rice, Asian slaw and Japanese pickles – sit next to another newcomer: mazeudon-style ramen. This comes with various toppings, including chashu, roast duck or oyster mushrooms. At the end of the meal, why not round off the experience with something sweet from the dessert menu, such as the palate- cleansing sorbet or Japanese mochi ice cream in matcha, raspberry and chocolate flavours for that refreshing finale.
this Japanese bar-restaurant – some areas dark and richly embellished, others light and bright, with decorative flourishes. The Mirror Room, as its name suggests, is lined with painted reflective panels that bounce light around the room, and tables radiate out from a central cherry blossom tree. It’s a beautiful statement installation, with upholstery prints adding visual interest. Your tabletop soon turns into a platter of delights, as menu choices arrive from the kitchen as and when they become ready. The spicy chicken zangi sharer is a particular highlight. This not-too-fiery take
FIT FOR ROYALTY The new prawn toast bao (below) and spicy chicken zangi (bottom)
CAMBSEDITION.CO.UK JUNE 2025 55
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