FOOD EDITION PERMISSION TO REVEL T ransport yourself to 20th- century Bombay. It is 1949, two years since India gained independence and the Bombay stage in permit rooms!), accompanied by refreshing ice-cold beers or a blend of Old Monk and Thums Up.” With only a handful of original From Bombay to Trinity Street, we get the latest on the opening of Permit Room Cambridge with co-founder of Dishoom, Shamil Thakrar Words PHOEBE HARPER
permit rooms remaining, they retain the clandestine air that led to their inception, creating a sense of having stumbled upon a hidden gem, a local secret spot. Inspired by this heritage, it’s an atmosphere you can now experience for yourself by passing through the mustard- coloured doors of number 17 Trinity Street, as Dishoom opens what is just its second Permit Room location. A new venture Permit Rooms mark a new endeavour for Dishoom as a sub brand that began with its first-ever location in Brighton last year. Dishoom itself harkens back to 2010, when Shamil and his cousin, Kavi, founded the restaurant group to pay homage to the food of Bombay and the culinary heritage of Irani cafes in the 20th century. “We felt that mainstream perceptions of Indian food and culture in the UK were perhaps slightly worn and clichéd,” shares Shamil. “The Irani cafes were known for bringing together a real mix of people – rich and poor, young and old, people of all
Prohibition Act has recently been passed, restricting the consumption of liquor in the city. Bombayites begin to bootleg discreetly in the backstreets while 'aunty bars' pop up in various locations: women covertly serving drinks from their front rooms. Restrictions loosen as the years pass and in 1970, those who have obtained a permit may partake in liquor for health purposes. So began the life of the permit room – small drinking spots often in easy-to-miss locations where people would gather and boundaries of class and caste would slowly erode in a convivial atmosphere; where hard liquor would be served alongside chakli and peanut masala. Today, permit rooms are a dying breed – but for Shamil Thakrar, co-founder of the Bombay-inspired restaurant Dishoom, their spirit lives on. “We’ve spent countless nights in Bombay’s permit rooms, creating fond memories during our travels,” he recalls. “Joyous hours have passed with friends, gathered around chakli and chicken pick- me-ups (as food invariably takes centre
FAMILY AFFAIR Bombay-inspired Dishoom was founded by cousins Shamil and Kavi Thakrar in 2010
32 JUNE 2024 CAMBSEDITION.CO.UK
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